Dream Hike

Before I left Maine I wrote about what I hoped would happen in Norway. I had four specific goals while here: to have as much fun as possible, to be the best house sitter ever, to stay healthy, and then there was one that I chose to keep quiet about for a time. In regards to the first goal, I am absolutely meeting it. Every day here is just an incredible dream that I don't ever want to end. I hope that so far I am doing alright in accomplishing the second goal, but it really can't happen for sure until my time here is done and my friends are back home to happy healthy pets. The third goal is also a work in progress and more to come on that. The fourth, well, that's what this post is about.

This goal wasn't really a secret, truthfully I only wanted to keep it unknown to my mother, so that she either didn't get worried about something that it turns out couldn't happen, or that she didn't find out until it was all said and done and I was back home safe and sound. Well the attempt happened today, and so mother can read this knowing I either a) didn't make it or b) am completely fine and she has nothing to worry about.

What was this dream of mine? A hike of course. A 10k (6.2 mile) hike deep in the heart of Lysefjordan that, when I found out I was coming to Norway, was the only thing I knew I absolutely truly wanted to do. I had decided that it was something too dangerous for me to attempt alone so Kairi and I had agreed to do it when she came. Upon arriving in Norway I discussed it with my friends and decided that maybe a guided hike was the way to go on this one. The Stavanger Tourist information center had lots of pamphlets and brochures available with information for this hike and after a brief glance through I found what I felt was the perfect one, and lucky for us the trip was available the day we had hoped and we got the last three seats.

Our guide, Johannes, pulled up in a red Volkswagen van in Stavanger Sentrum (city center) right at 7:30am. There was already one other hiker on board, one other woman was picked up with us, and we made to additional stops to complete our hiking crew of seven, plus our guide. We were quite a diverse group of people too, one woman was from Hong Kong, another from Turkey, one from Poland who was living in the UK, and a gentleman from Japan. Johannes himself had lived in Norway for many years but was actually from the Netherlands.

We were told that during our two hour ride, we would drive through five different valleys and reach a height of over 1000 meters (3,280 ft) above sea level before eventually going back down to the 640 meters (2,100 ft) we would start at. The drive itself was absolutely stunning, with mountains and rivers, lakes and fjords in every direction. The valleys we rode through were also full of sheep farmers. In the summer the sheep are set free to roam the mountains and valleys and there were a few in our sight almost throughout the trip, many were so bold that they roamed the road without a care in the world and no worry about the cars speeding by them. Johannes talked about how people here like to talk about the mightiness of the Norwegian mountains, but that what we see today is just what is left over after the glaciers from many ice ages have worn them down. He said that at one point they were higher than the Himalayas, which was truly something to imagine.

It was a little after 10am when we pulled into the parking lot, and we all piled out of the van to get geared up for our adventure. The requirements for supplies on this trip was that everyone have a backpack with water and snacks, hiking boots and a waterproof jacket and pants. Sneakers and jeans were not allowed, but Johannes had boots, coats and jackets available to rent for the hike and quite a few of us exercised that option (I myself needed the pants). He provided each of us with poles and we were all set. We paused just at the start of the trail so that we could look at the map of the hike itself. Johannes explained that there we would be climbing three hills with two valleys between, and then once the summit of the third hill was reached the trail would plateau for a bit until we reached our destination. He also warned us that due to the shockingly abnormal amount of snow this area of Norway had gotten the previous year  there would still be snow along some areas of the trail. He said that the first hill was by far the steepest and with that in mind we set off.

He wasn't lying about the steepness. Sheer open rock, wet with rain and melting snow, went up in what seemed like total vertical form. Steel rods with metal chains attached to them were buried deep into the rocks and we grabbed onto those for dear life as we made our way upwards. After what felt like far too long we finally reached the top and then changed directions to go down into the first valley. That bit was made easier by huge rock steps placed into the trail and when we reached the bottom Johannes told us that these rock stairs, and the stairs along the trail at Preikestolen, were cut and set in place by Sherpas. The same Sherpas that are most famous for the aide they provider to the climbers of Mt Everest in Nepal. He said that Norway brings over Sherpas every summer to help build up and maintain trails all over the country as an effort to help keep hikers on the actual trail itself and prevent erosion from happening. A really cool thing about this is that the Sherpas are paid Norwegian wages and that what they earn in one summer in Norway, is more than they would make in a lifetime in Nepal.

We began our ascent of the second hill, which actually included some hiking through snow(!) and this one thankfully did prove to be less difficult. Two hills out of the way, we stepped down into the second valley and followed Joahnnes to a nice little area with a beautiful view of the fjord far beneath us and there we stopped for lunch. Everyone sat and pulled out their food and Joahnnes passed around hot cups of a locally produced black current juice that was simply delicious and perfect for that moment. As we ate the clouds came in with a vengeance and by the time we left the fjord below was completely obscured. From the start of our day, beginning with the pick up in the Sentrum, the weather wavered between clouds, rain, and patches of blue sky with a shining bit of sun. I definitely preferred the cooler weather to a hot sunny day as I feel the latter would have made the hike very uncomfortable.

The third hill was the longest, but unquestionably not as tough as the first, and once it's summit was finally achieved we had an easy walk over rocks and through snow to reach our final destination.

When you google 'hiking in Norway' three hikes pop up most frequently. One is Trolltunga a 23km (14.2 m) hike near the area of Bergen that I would love to do but can't because it's too far away. The second is Preikestolen which I got to climb Saturday. The third is Kjerag (pronounced Cher-og). In just a cursory search of the hike there is very little talked about the actual hike itself. There are also very few pictures of the trail, save for one. Kjergabolten. It is the reason that most people step on to this trail,  and easily one of the most well known pictures of Norway, if not of the world. Even if the name itself doesn't ring a bell, I can almost guarantee you've seen a picture at least once in your life. It's a boulder stuck in a mountain crevice promising a 1000 meter drop to the fjord below should you fall (that's 3,280ft!). This was my goal, I wanted to get onto that rock. Did I? Absolutely!

I wish I could tell you that me doing so was some crazy act of daredevilishness, but in the spirit of honesty it was a lot easier than the pictures make it seem. There is a ledge a couple inches wider than a balance beam that you're able to step on and then you just slowly ease yourself out onto the actual rock itself. When I finally stepped out there and stood up my body was overwhelmed with this hypnotizing blaze of invincibility at where I was - at what I was doing but also a breathtaking awareness of my own vulnerability should one wrong move send me falling. Even with the misty fog rolling around my eyes were able to pierce the white haze enough to see the fjord below, and that is something I will likely never forget.

Once we'd all gone, Johannes passed around a Norwegian chocolate bar for a mini celebration, and mission accomplished for us all, we began the descent back down to the parking lot. The weather back was more of the same mist, sun and sprinkles of rain. I had been dreading the return trip due to the steepness of those hills coming back up, but Johannes led us in an alternative direction that relied much less on those steel chains. It was muddier though and by the time we finally got back to the van I was a complete disaster! Just like Preikestolen I did fall once, but thankfully this time was in the snow and I had a much lighter landing. The drive back to Stavanger was just as astonishingly beautiful as before, and we arrived back home full of delight of the days events.

Even though I have loved every second of my time in Norway in the back of my mind there was also a sense of unrest because Kjerag had yet to be achieved. I don't think I was able to fully immerse myself in every experience before today because part of me was so wrapped up around the question of whether or not I would be able to do this hike. Now that sense of unease is gone, it fell away into the fjord as I made my way out onto the boulder. I got to taste a dream of a lifetime today...kind of amazing.

Preisketolen

Preikestolen, or Pulpit Rock, is one of Norways biggest attractions. Found in Lysefjorden, it is a
 25 meter squared plateau, that juts out of the fjord walls 604 meters above the ocean. About 7 km long, this hike is one that thousands of tourists travel to each year. To get to the Preikestolen lodge and trail head from Stavanger, adventurers must take a ferry from Stavanger to Tau and once dropped off take a bus, or drive if their destination. From the moment Norway became a possibility I had wanted to do this hike, and lucky for me Kairi and Eric did as well.

We made the first ferry out at 8:15am and upon landing at Tau hopped a bus that would take us to Preikestolen lodge and the trailhead. I had been a little nervous about this hike. Partly because I always worry that I won't be strong enough to complete a hike of this magnitude, but also because of what I'd heard about the trail itself- that it was super steep all the way up and that there were no bathrooms, and no place along the trail to sneak off to if a bathroom break became a necessity. Kairi and I weren't taking any chances and had actually refrained from drinking anything in the morning to circumvent emergencies. It turns out that the only true fact was no bathrooms along the trail.

For me the first 1/2 km was the worst part of the entire hike. It was just a groomed trail that went straight uphill, and each step made me doubt my capability to make it to Preikestolen even more. But once past that the trail was kind of nice. There were fairly level trails through the woods. Quite a few rock stairs that, while precarious at times, is definitely preferable to that first 1/2 km. There were times we walked across flat boards over bogs, huge rock walls encircling us. Other times we traversed small rock hills with little ponds and wispy trees keeping us company. And then there were the moments we broke out onto a cliff with blue-gray lakes softly beckoning below us. All around we were greeted with the rich browns, mossy greens, and gray hues that make up the rainbow of the forest.

I had worried that going on a weekend would cause the trail to be too crowded, and while it definitely was full of people of all ages (I saw a baby just a few months old and someone at least in their mid 60s) and heard languages of all nationalities (Norwegian, English, Spanish, Chinese, Russian, etc...) I don't feel that it detracted much from the power of the hike.

We had woken to a partly sunny/cloudy day in Stavanger, but at the ferry the skies held nothing but gray, and on the bus ride to the trailhead there were raindrops hitting the windshield. The rain had ceased by the time we started and on our way to the top it only visited a few times. Mostly our steps were only accompanied by foggy clouds and strong winds. I was kind of happy with that though, hot sun would have been unpleasant for climbing.

Kairi turned out to be a speed demon and had the lead most of the way, but she'd stopped for a picture with Eric and I turned out to be the first to reach and step onto Preikestolen. Every picture I have seen of this place has always looked cool. When I flew over it in the helicopter on Monday it was even more incredible and made me more excited for this hike. But actually standing on top of it, well, that was something else. A total rush of awe and excitement. I snapped a few pictures and when Kairi and Eric got there we took a lot more. I laid on my stomach and peeked over the edge - talk about an adrenaline rush! - and then sat up and had my legs dangling over and that felt even scarier!

Just as we started on our return hike the rain came. It wasn't hard, but it fell with a steady insistence for the entirety of our way back to the lodge. In true Kelly fashion, I did slip on some rocks at one point landing squarely on my right knee. It's sore now, I have a few scrapes, and I'm sure a bruise will blossom tomorrow, but it could have been worse (there was one poor man we saw come into the lodge who'd broken his arm). Thanks to a good raincoat and waterproof boots my torso and feet stayed fairly dry, but my head was soaked and my pants were pretty wet too (although I do have very good hiking pants that dry faster than some so that wasn't too awful). By the time we finished I was thoroughly chilled. The worst though was my fingers, white with frozen numbness they refused to move, to bend, to work like fingers should.

We had just missed a bus for the ferry and had an hour to way until the next, so we walked to the lodge where I headed straight for the bathroom. I grabbed paper towels to mop up my drenched faces and then tried desperately, unsuccessfully, to get my fingers to cooperate. Despite this, I managed to change into an extra t-shirt and sweater I'd packed in my backpack which had stayed surprisingly dry, but my fingers were so bad it took me 30 seconds just to snap up 2 snaps. I ran my hands under steaming hot water for a minute before giving up and joining Kairi and Eric.

They had taken a seat and ordered food from the lodge restaurant. I pulled out my snacks and ate, and was able to then warm my hands around a cup of some hot beverage that Eric had kindly pushed in my direction. The bus and ferry ride back were pretty uneventful and back in Stavanger we raced for the parking lot and our warm heated car that would take us home.

Hours later, showered, wearing warm pjs, and drinking hot peppermint tea, I am able to appreciate all of the experience much more than I was back at the lodge. The one major bummer for me is that it appears my camera has given out, which could mean no more picture taking for me the rest of my trip. That's disappointing, but honestly if the choice was between a working camera or todays hike I would choose the hike every time. It was absolutely worth it!

The First Hike

 

One of the hikes my friends had recommended to me was Dalsnuten. On the sticky note left on the trail map Katy had written "Not a very long hike (1 1/2 hrs?) but a Stavanger classice - like Flattop - Everyone has to hike it once". For those of you not familiar with Alaska, Flattop is a mountain in Anchorage that, like Katy said, everyone knows of and hikes - at least once,  and so being the Stavanger Flattop, Kairi and Eric decided it was right for our first real Norwegian hike. We left the house around 9:30am. I had looked up and written down the directions to get there, but I was also remembering what Katy had said about finding the trailhead and wound up completely confused. Thankfully, Kairi had brought her phone, which mercifully found internet when I had pulled over to look at the actual paper map and try to pinpoint where we were. Her phone led us to the right road, and it turns out we were actually fairly close, I had just taken us on the scenic route to get there. Once sure of where we were going, finding the parking lot was fairly easy. The trailhead rests at a huge, free (!), gravel lot and two white buildings with red signs on each stating "Stavanger Region" (I'm not sure what they were as we didn't get close enough to investigate). A sign for Dalsnuten said it was 1.8km to the summit, and with backpacks on, waterbottles full, and cameras ready for new pictures, we set off.

The trail was exactly what you might have imagined for a sunny European hike through the woods.

Tall trees, a blend of what you'd find in Alaska and Maine, rustled in the wind, leaves glittering from the sun shining through them. The path was wide, well groomed, and well marked with red painted T's on the trees and rocks; the terrain fairly level or only slightly inclined. After a bit we came to a short wooden gate with the word "Lekke" painted across. Remembering "Right to Roam", we opened the latch and trundled through, careful to shut the door behind us. Not too long after we came to a lake and saw the trail break sharply right going over a small bridge before leading out to the rocks along the water. But before turning to follow it our eyes caught sight of something that caused our steps to head left instead.

Goats! And sheep! Curled up napping, or lazily grazing, they were all around with no barrier between us. I did remember Katy telling me that this was a common occurrence while out hiking (thus the importance of always shutting gates behind you), but had misplaced that memory until that moment. We snapped a few pictures and then headed back down the trail, full of elation at this unexpected discovery.

We hopped over rocks and chatted about whatever until we reached another fence. Instead of a gate, this one had a two sided angled ladder making it easy to cross without effort. As this was a family hike, there was also a little door that parents could slide upward for their little ones to go through. At that point the trail became much steeper and more like climbing over larger rocks than an actual trail. Our talking dwindled as we focused on the task ahead, but truthfully it wasn't all that steep, and with only one stop to enjoy the lake below, sparkling as if lit by magic, we made it to the top  before much time passed.

The summit is 323 meters, and has a 360 degree view that wows. In one direction all of Stavanger was spread out before us, and in the other mountains upon mountains flew back until snow capped mountains towered and we could see no further. The water below glowed like blue fire. At the
summit is a man made tall square structure consisting of small rocks, a popular place for pictures. We turned in circles of delight, snapped pictures for remembering always, and then headed back down.

We had noticed on our ascent that some people had made the climb from an alternate direction, so we chose that one for our return. Once past the steep rocks, crossing along the lake line we realized that side of the lake was much muddier than the other, and wooden planks had been set down to aide hikers over the worst areas. It didn't take us long to reach the trail end, and as it was still fairly early in the day we decided to turn around and go back up only in a new direction.

Not knowing the name of the trail, we meandered upwards over dirt, grass and rocks, letting the red trail markers guide us. This path was less steep, but full of huge exposed rock that reminded me forcibly of my White Mountain hikes in Maine. We reached the peaks of several small hills before finally stopping before a sign post "Fjogstadnuten 295 moh". Far across from us we could see Dalsnuten, and at a greater distance behind us was another peak with rocks stacked high. I so badly wanted to keep going until we reached that unknown mountain, but I'm sure I could have continued on that way for days. We decided though it was time to turn around and make our way down to the car.

We stopped briefly to peek into a hut made of twisted trees, We then sat and wondered at a small wooden bridge that was actually sprinkled with glitter leaving us feeling like we'd been transported to some enchanted forest. At last, the trail came to an end and we piled into the car that would drive us home.

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A Few Norwegianisms

I can't believe it's already been a week since I touched down in Norway. I am completely entranced with every detail about this trip, I'm having a total blast, and I already dread the day I have to step onto a plane that will take me home (although I do miss my cats, and thank you to Mary and Star for the pictures you've posted of each!). I have picked up quite a number of interesting facts and details about the people here and the land itself, and today I'm going to share just a few random things I've learned.

Public Right of Access

 

The afternoon I arrived, Katy took me out for a walk with her dog Levi. We talked about miscellaneous things as she led me through a neighborhood of houses, under a bridge, and then out onto a field of barley on one side and milking cows on the other. At one point during our conversation, she said "Just so you know, in Norway they have a law that lets you walk just about anywhere. In case you were thinking it was strange that we were just walking through a farm, that's why, it's because we're allowed to". I recalled skimming over an online article about such a thing and the nature of what it entailed, but like so many online articles, I hadn't read it thoroughly much less absorbed any of the information. In the past few days I have looked into that law more and here is what I've discovered.

There is such a thing called  "Public Rights of Way" or "Right to Roam", that states anyone in Norway, resident or not, is allowed to walk through forests, mountains, coast line even if that land is privately owned. You are also allowed to camp on these outlying areas, although you must stay at least  150 meters (492 feet) away from the nearest house. If you stay for more than one night you do need to get the owners permission, unless you are in a mountain or "desolate" area in which case permission is not needed. Berry and plant picking is completely allowed. The sources I've looked at do say for areas considered "inlying" such as homes, cultivated lands, fields, meadows etc... there are more restrictions on what you can do, but they also go on to say that if you go into any area with a fence, just make sure you shut the gate behind you. And indeed, Katy said she's seen local Norwegians do just that.

A few additional rules associated with this concept are: no fires between April 15 through September 15, all dogs must be on a leash, motorized vehicles are usually not allowed, and "with the exceptions of fishing for saltwater fish and other hunting for huntable marine species, hunting and fishing is not a public right".

Shopping for Food

 

Katy took me to the grocery store right after picking me up at the airport, just so I could have a few of my favorite staple foods for the next couple of days. In Norway there are two main grocery stores called Coop and Rema, but a third had just recently opened up and it was there that Katy took me because for her it was the most American like grocery store. She explained that most stores here are very small, with narrow aisles, and not a huge selection. The exception to this is fish and meat, Norwegians are a people who enjoy beef, chicken, pork etc... and they have a crazy amount of fish -
smoked salmon, lox, fish burgers or cakes, fish pudding (which sounds disgusting), and frozen fish you can cook yourself. While walking through the aisle pointed out something that I probably never would have picked up on myself, which is that Norwegians really don't buy anything in bulk. What Americans would consider a small jar of peanut butter, is pretty much the biggest one that they have. Instead of the milk aisle plenty of gallon sized options - you're really going to only pick up something that will last one person a few days. There are no extra large boxes of cereal or huge gallons of ice cream. Katy said that most people here only go shopping for food to last them a few days, and just make regular trips to the store a couple times each week. I tend to do this myself back home, but I know a few people who would really struggle with such a concept - especially those with large families.

Work Life

 

 

When they moved here, my friends received a book titled "New to Norway". The pages inside it provide a person who just moved to the country, useful information on work life, school systems, home ownership, motor vehicle ownership, taxes etc... I might possibly have a post just about the facts and tidbits offered in that book, but today I'll just share one. Every employee in the country has
25 days of paid holiday leave each calendar year. This is the case whether that employee is a doctor, a librarian, a waitress, or someone who works on a farm. And, each employee is "entitled to three continuous weeks' holiday during the main holiday period from 1 June to 30 September. Employees are entitled to take the remainder of their holidays in one continuous period". These 25 days do not include sick leave - that is a separate benefit. A few weeks before I left Maine, I listened to a podcast about how people in the US are increasingly not using the paid time off they get each year - that's of course if they work for an employer who gives time off. I think we need to look at how they do thinks in Europe, we might all be a happier group of people if we did.

A Country of Introverts

 

I cannot tell you how many times I have had a friend mention to me that when first introduced to each other they thought I was stuck up. Their reason for this was based solely on the fact that I kept to myself and didn't talk much - especially we were in a group of people. I also can't tell you how many times I've experience the same inner turmoil whenever I am walking down a hallway, or out on the street, or through the woods, and I see someone approaching me from the opposite direction. "Do I say hi? Do I just smile and nod? Do I stare straight ahead? Do I just look down at the ground and pretend I'm alone?", these questions are a constant stream, continually increasing in the rapidity of their repetition until the inevitable meeting comes and that other - usually unknown - person is passed. For those of you who think that type of thinking is crazy, welcome to the life of an introvert.

Well, apparently Norway is a country after my own heart and the majority of people here are introverts. I have been told by my friends, and every Norwegian that I have actually had a conversation with, that while the people who live here are truly good nice people, they just don't talk or even acknowledge you, unless they have a good reason. Katy said their neighbors think her and Joe are a little crazy because they say hi to them when passing and that just isn't done here. My brother-in-law mentioned how strange that felt for him just hours after he arrived. For me though, it's a huge sigh of relief, because finally I am surrounded by people who feel the way I do. And now, when I'm out walking the dog, or wandering the city, or exploring the trail system and I see someone else, I finally know the right way to react. Not only do I know, but it's something that comes naturally to me, it's comfortable, and that feels really good.

That's all for now, more insights into the Norwegian way of life to follow!

Stavanger - My July Home

Stavanger, Norway

 

Phonetic Pronunciation: Stah-vain-grr (I was way off on this one)

Population: Norway's 4th largest city with 127,506 residents

Location: The city rests on the Stavanger peninsula in southwest Norway, residents are able to look up and see the waters of Hafrsfjorden and Gandesiforden (this one I can see from my house!)

Weather: Due it's coastal location, Stavanger is known for fairly mild weather year round. In the summer, temperatures rarely go higher than 17 degrees Celsius (that's 62 degrees Fahrenheit). During winter time the temperature can dip to 4 degrees Celsius (that's a warm 40 degrees Fahrenheit). My friends said this past winter they got very little snow but they did have some spectacular wind storms, which I have no difficulty believing as it has been very windy here. Since I have been here, it's ranged from 10-15 degrees Celsius. There has been quite a bit of rain (which I love!) and a decent amount of sun. I don't mind the sun though, because not only does it still stay fairly cool even when it's shining down, it's also not humid, and that is just beyond fabulous!

History to Today: Stavanger can be found in books of history dating back more than 1000 years, with entries noting the "fierce independence" of the Vikings who lived there and the unavoidable fights that came with that spirit. Once the Viking era died out, the city was no more than a quiet fishing village and held very little influence in the country for many years. In the 19th century the city experienced an influx of herring in it's waters which put them back on the map (figuratively) and, for a time, a fishing and canning industry proved very beneficial to it's residents. In the 1960s, oil was discovered off of the coast and it's influence on Stavanger continues today. According to visitnorway.com, Stavanger is the oil and energy capital of Europe, and it is the main source of income for the majority of the city residents.

Celebrations of History: There are many unique and special places that Stavanger holds claim to, and I'm sure that even after a month here I will not have seen everything. But in the few days I have been able to explore I was able to visit a few spots that tend to always come up whenever the city is mentioned....


Gamle Stavanger (Old Stavanger): If you're heading towards the south/southwest part of the city
center, you will find yourself walking along lamppost dotted cobblestone streets that meander in, out, around and between quaint white-washed wooden houses and flowers of every color. Totaling 156 in all, these homes are some of the oldest known wooden buildings in the world, and today are evenly mixed between family homes and commercial storefronts. Walking through this area, trying to imagine the people who lived in these houses from the time they were built, was really fun - almost magical. It was like I opened the cover of a book and stepped in through it's pages to experience a secret part of history.

Valbergtarnet (Fire lookout tower): Built high on a hill in the year 1850, this lookout came to be after a series of fires caused serious loss and suffering to the inhabitants of the city. According to one source, a 1684 fire left the city so damaged that the choice was almost
made not to rebuild. That did not happen (obviously) and after it's construction, guards stood watch for fires and other "suspicious activity" until 1922. This place I did not set out to see, rather I stumbled across this place by accident - I got lost trying to find something else in the city. There is a small museum inside today, but museums aren't typically my thing so I didn't go in.


 
 

Domkirken (Stavanger Cathedral): Stavanger has the honor of being home to the country's oldest cathedral. Finished sometime between 1100-1150 (my sources vary on this one), we owe it's creation to the Reinald, an Englishman and first bishop of Stavanger who was given permission and funds from King Sigurd Jorsalfar to build this great structure. It suffered serious damage after a fire in 1272 but was rebuilt, and further restoration efforts took place in 1860 and 1940. Today, the church is a unique mixture of Gothic, baroque, Romanesque and Anglo Norman influence. Unfortunately for me, the church is undergoing some repairs once again and the inside is closed to visitors until September 2015. However, just standing in front of those solid doors and walking around those great stone walls is enough to fill one with wonder and awe.


Sverd i fjell (Swords in the Rock): Built in 1983 under the eye of King Olav, this monument was created to honor Harald Harfagre and the battle he fought in 872 AD that ended with Norway being united into one kingdom. Three swords were built, with the tallest meant to honor Harald Hargagre himself, and the other two to symbolize the other fallen kings. Together they stand for peace, unity and freedom. The swords aren't quite as tall I'd envisioned them to be, but they still have a very strong presence and are cool to walk through and touch. There is a parking area right next to Sverd i fjell, that my friend drove us to for a really cool walk around the coast, but it also is close enough that I could bike there if I so desired.


What the Guidebooks Don't Tell You: I remember being surprised by just how windy Maine was when I first moved there, but compared to Stavanger, Maine really just has a light breeze. But it

makes sense that the wind is so strong her since the city lies right  coast, and the gales are definitely strongest anywhere just along the water. Another thing that I find neat (but I know not everyone here shares my opinion), is the using graffiti as a way to decorate the city with art. This picture you see here is my favorite of what I've seen so far, but there are dozens of others that are pretty darn cool. Lastly, holy hills!! I can't remember the last time I walked around a city built not just on hilly terrain, but super steep hilly terrain. And it's not just the city center that that's like this, as far as I can tell it's everywhere in Stavanger, and Sandnes was similar well. The worst so far is actually the street my friends live on, and you should have seen my trying ride my bike up it (comical, pathetic, and ending with me just walking with bike in tow). Of course, all these hills are good practice for some of the hikes I'm hoping to accomplish, and walking them can only help me to succeed! That is all for now, more to come soon...

Just a note: All the photos in this post are courtesy of the internet, as I'm still trying to figure out a way to get my pictures from my camera to my friends computer.

Norway, Here I Come!

So it's finally here. After weeks of serious thought, flurried activity, whirlwind planning, and life changing choices, I am at the eve of my Norwegian adventure. In the center of my living room sit two filled suitcases and a packed carry on (all of which are covered with cat hair). The thought of leaving my cats for a month saddens me, but I have done as much as possible to make sure they are well taken care of in my absence (a huge thank you to all my friends taking care of them). I am filled with butterflies, excitement and hope. I am eager to get there, to begin exploring that beautiful faraway land. Halfway through my trip, my sister and brother-in-law will be joining me for a week, which I'm psyched about. I also get to spend a day with two of my aunts as they pass through Stavanger on a trip of their own and that will be wonderful. And of course being the true introvert that I am, I feel ridiculously excited about a couple weeks of just being off on my own. I have four goals for this trip; the first is to have as much fun as I possibly can. The second is is to do the best damn housesitting job I've ever done. My third goal is to stay healthy.

There is unfortunately the concern of how this trip will affect my recovery. The knowledge of what happened to my weight in Utah remains on the forefront of my mind. This trip to Norway has a lot of additional factors that could make staying strong and making good choices harder. I will be alone for much of it, I will (hopefully) be doing a lot of hiking, and the food there will be different which could make it easier for her to trick me. I am very happy, and more than a little relieved, to report that I did have some weight gain. I was told it was only a little bit, but that still helps me to go into this adventure buoyed by a concrete sign that I am still in charge of my life and health rather than feeling discouraged and worried that she was taking over again.

She is furious of course, and trying to trip me up at every turn. Every mirror I pass by, every reflection caught in a window, she is quick to point out how hideous I've become with that small bit of extra weight. I'm doing my best to just not look, to not let her dig her claws in further, but it's one of those situations where the sight is just to horrific not to. I pay for that of course, each time she leaves me wishing I could just dissolve into invisibility. She's trying to get me to let up on the food. She's promising left right and backward that if I diet now then she'll be ok with me letting loose and really diving into food there. She says that if I just lose that little bit again, than it will be ok for me to gain weight with abandon in Norway. I fight back though. I tell her to shut it, because I know giving in now will mean a definite weight loss once I'm there. So I eat each bite of every meal and snack I know I need and try to tune out her howling shrieks of dismay and disgust in the background.

Lucky for me, I don't have to rely solely on my healthy self to fend her off for a month. One of the many reasons I'm glad Kairi will be with me for a week is that she'll be able to look me and assess how I'm doing much more objectively than I'll be capable of. I know that I'll be able to count on her to step in and say something if I'm slipping. And then there is my "Recovery Toolkit", full of objects I can hold in my hands to glean strength from if my own is wavering or disappeared completely. As seen in this picture, there's my "Alternatives to Destructive Behavior" list, a letter I wrote to myself to help keep me strong which I'll read each day I'm there, one of my favorite books ever to curl and and read, a brand new travelers journal whose pages can't wait to become friends with my thoughts, a necklace from my mom, letters and cards of support from friends and my fellow Recovery Warriors, a box of my favorite tea, and of course peanut butter! I have a few other things not pictured here, but no less important. I am hopeful that the combination of the dreams, heart, and mind of my healthy self, Kairi's presence for a week, and these items will enough to drown out all possibility of her once more becoming queen of my body.

I plan to do a lot of writing while there, but I'm not sure how often, or even if, that writing will make it's way on to this blog. In truth, I don't know what access, if any, I'll have to the internet. I'm not bringing my laptop, and I won't have my phone; it's possible I may spend the next four weeks completely cut off from my friends and family back in the states. If that is the case, don't mistake my lack of communication for a sign I'm in trouble. I'll be fine, and upon my return will reveal all the facets of my trip - good and bad. I am also not sure when I will be able to share any pictures, even if I can get online I might not be able to upload pictures, but I promise those will come as well.

For those of you paying attention, I haven't forgotten to share my fourth goal. I've just decided to keep that my secret for now, a bit of a mystery to leave you wondering. It''s possible that one wish of mine won't come to fruition, but with luck on my side it will and I will then tell my tale with gleeful triumph.

With that I am off! Let the exhilarating breath of adventure bring what it may...

Faerie Wonderings

We call them faerie. We don’t believe in them.  Our loss. ~ Charles de Lint

I woke before dawn. I had gone to bed late last night and it was even later before sleep finally came, so I had expected to open my eyes this morning exhausted. Instead I felt strangely alert, surprisingly energetic. I was inexplicably happy. I don’t remember what I dreamed, but when I find myself so instantly alive upon waking I usually consider that a sign my dreams were wonderful ones. As usual, I brewed coffee first thing and, cup in hand, headed back to bed to enjoy it. It was the first time in over a week that I was able to enjoy completely that tantalizing coffee aroma as this cold of mine knocked out my sense of smell and it’s just now returning. The smell of fresh coffee really is one of my favorite things in this earth, and as it wafted up from the cup I was holding, I treasured it even more than normal. The street outside was dark and quiet, the street lamps the only thing hinting at life outside. At one of the street lamps across the street, and no this isn’t the one I’d written about before, I saw what in all likelihood were moths flying, circling beneath it. At first I marveled that I was able to see them flying from that distance, because light or no moths are rather small. To me they appeared much bigger than I would have guessed, again because of the distance. They seemed to be glowing too, which makes sense since they were flying under a street lamp, but the glow truly seemed to be coming from within them. I wondered if they could be faeries.

I’ve not been shy about sharing my desire for magic to be real, for imagining often that dragons and unicorns and elves really do grace this land, but I usually only see hints of their existence in nature. To see something in the middle of a city street is rare. I know, I know, they really were just moths lured into the inescapable trap of light. But what if they were faeries. Out flying, dancing, weaving their mischievous magic along the dark of Maine street finishing just in time to disappear at sunrise. What if every day we walk through their spells, completely unaware of their effect on our lives. What if they watch us in the daylight hours, guiding or tricking us to their own amusement. What if they're real.

Wouldn't that be something...

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