Oh, Places You'll See!

I'm skipping a big introduction today, an instead diving straight in to some of my favorite memories this past week...

Eigerøy Fyr

A jewel of a lighthouse I happened upon this quite on accident. I had driven to Egersund last Thursday and thought it a cute little town, but lacking some of the excitement and vivacity of Stavanger. Wandering into the tourist information center I learned Eigerøy Fyr was only a short drive away and eagerly went to find it. Twenty minutes and one very narrow road later, I pulled into a parking lot with a teasing glimpse of Eigerøy Fyr in the distance. I had expected something like the Portland Head Light, where the lighthouse would just a few minutes walk from the car, and so went through the wooden gate (keeping the sheep and cows safe) and began walking thinking I just had to go around that next curve in the path. I rounded the bend and saw not a lighthouse but a second gate. I lifted the latch and pushed it open and continued on uphill where I reached another gate. This continued on for sometime but lucky for me it was a beautiful little journey, full of rounded rock hills, deep green grass, lakes and farm animals. When I finally did come to the top of the last hill and finally saw Eigerøy, I was glad I'd made the effort. The lighthouse was still some distance away, and the paved trail ended then, transforming to one of large rocks, mud and river. I wanted to continue on, to get close enough to brush my fingers on it, but it was by then late in the day, and the need to get home was pressing on me, so I lingered a few moments longer before turning back.

Later at home I looked up Eigerøy Fyr's history and found that it became Norway's first cast iron lighthouse when built in 1854. At 107.9 feet it has built a reputation for one of Europe's strongest lights, and it's success helped spur the construction of many additional cast iron lighthouses along the country's coastline. It became fully automated in 1989, but the old watchers house has been set up as a café that is open to visitors in the summertime.

Gladmat

For four days every summer, Stavanger plays host to Gladmat. Literally meaning "Happy Food" it's an international food festival, the largest in all the Nordic countries. Each year over 100 vendors come to share the unique deliciousness of their delicacies and are rewarded with close to 250,000 visitors to enjoy them. When I first learned this festival corresponded with my trip I wasn't sure if I would go. The thought of driving through crowds of thousands of people, finding parking, and then joining those same thousands seems as appealing as an impromptu math test. And then of course there's her and all the issues she brings to the table as soon as the mere thought of food pops up. After much thinking I decided I needed to go, if only for a bit, because after all what are the chances I will ever get such a chance again?

I definitely made the right choice, because walking up and down the peer, in and out of those white tented food stalls was quite a delightful spectacle! Seafood, burgers, cheese, baked goods, wines, and chocolate topped waffles - the air was scented with the most wonderful aroma; people swirled in every direction, eating, laughing, and looking for their next treat; and to add to the merriment a stage was set up with a band singing their hearts out. My anxiety was definitely way up (she was begging the whole time for me to turn and run pell mell back to the car), and I physically wasn't feeling great, but I'd promised myself before I even left the house that I was going to try at least one thing and I'm happy to say I stuck to that! After circling for awhile I settled on a very chocolaty, fudgy looking brownie and a coffee. Treat and cup in hand, I walked over to the center steps and sat down in front of the band. The brownie was delicious, without doubt a good choice, I savored every bite.

Ustein Koster

If one gets into the car and drives 30 minutes north of my friends house, they will arrive at Ustein Kloster. With Kloster being the Norwegian word for monastery, and literally translated as "an enclosed space", Ustein can trace it's history back to the 9th century when historical records list this cite as the garrison for King Harold Fairhair's after his Battle of Hafrsfjord brought Norway under one rule. The monastery was constructed on the remnants of this site in 1260 and became home to monks serving under the Augustinian order with St Laurance as their patron saint (this poor guy was killed in 258, burnt on an iron grill by the Romans). When the Reformation occurred the monastery was left empty and the buildings and surrounding farmland began to crumble. In 1750 a man by the name of Christopher Garmann moved in and restored the area to it's former glory. The farm is still managed by decedents of the Garmann family, while the monastery became a museum allows locals and tourists a chance to walk though the courtyard, rooms and staircases that contain the history of hundreds of years and thousands of lives.

This place really was beautiful. I went with Kairi and Eric on their last day here, and hopefully they felt it was a great last day activity. The courtyard was enchanting, the church awing, and the surrounding land peaceful and open. It's also right on the coast, the ocean and salt air really adding to the charm of the whole visit. This is also where I learned that I apparently love old fashioned door handles,  think I commented on every single one we went through!

Fjøløy Fyr

After leaving Ustein Kloster, I deliberately turned down the wrong road because I just wanted to see what was there. I am glad that I did, because it took us to the parking area that led out to Fjøløy Fyr. Just a tiny little lighthouse at 56 ft, it is actually bigger than it's 1849 original, which was just mere lantern. The need for something larger and more permanent, Fjøløy was built in 1867 and housed a watcher until it's automation in 1977. After walking up the steps that lead to its locked doorway, visitors can take in the ocean view and then walk on through the series of trails that are found in that area. We didn't explore those that day but maybe, if I ever get back to Norway, I'll be able to do so.

 Månafossen

One of my favorite Norwegian adventures, I hiked to Månafossen yesterday. Fed by the Mån river, the falls - or foss - is the largest in south-western Norway stunning hikers with it's 302 ft drop. Late morning, I backed out of the driveway with rain drumming against the windshield and drove through a series of some of my favorite valleys to get to the trailhead. The rain had eased to a drizzle by then, stopping all together by the time my first footstep hit the trail, but throughout the hike I was surrounded by mist of the most magical sense. The trail to the falls was steep, lots of open rock, wet with rain. I came across many steel chains bolted into the rock to help ease my way up. My heart was racing with exertion and anticipation when I got my first view of the falls 20 minutes later, and excitement at that shimmering sight made my pulse speed up more. I have always loved waterfalls, in fact I've frequently said I want to live behind one, and part of me wanted to stand there watching forever.

I didn't though, because the trail continues up past the falls and deep into the Fidjadal valley, and while I knew it would take multiple days for me to walk the whole thing (definitely a possibility for me), I wanted to get as far as I could that day. Through dense trees and friendly fog I climbed over hills and stepped lightly over wet rocks. Suddenly I stepped out into a wide open field, sprinkled lightly with trees, that followed the Mån river and the mountains on all sides. I walked full of wonder, grateful for everything that had transpired to bring me that moment in that place.

Priority Roads, "No Speed Zones", and other Roundabout Ways of Driving

My first morning waking up in Norway, Katy and I were discussing the plan for the day and she said "Joe was thinking of a driving lesson after dinner tonight". Immediately my pulse began racing and my mind was flooded with the simple words of "Oh God, Oh God, Oh God".  A refrain that became intermixed with the thought "Please don't let me crash their car" from the moment I turned the key in the ignition to the second I pulled back into the driveway and put the car in park. More than three weeks later, I must say that it really isn't too much harder to drive here. They do drive on the same side of the road as Americans, something that gave me a huge sigh of relief. There are though a few things that are tricky and make paying attention extremely important.

- Speed limits and distances are all in kilometers rather than miles. In Norway the allowed speeds
tend to be fairly low. So far the highest speed allowed that I've seen is 90 kph (or 55 mph) and that was on the highway. In the city it's more commonly somewhere between 30-50 kph (18-31 mph). This has proved a bit tricky for me since I have a bit of a lead foot so far I've managed to restrain my speeding desires.

- For the most part speed limits are clearly marked, but there is also something called the "no speed zone". Most speed limits markers have a white back round with a red circle around the edge and the number written in black; however, if you pass a limit sign that's has no red circle and the number is grayed out with black lines through then you've entered such a zone. This doesn't give you license to drive as fast as you please, rather it means if you are driving in an unpopulated area you can go 80 kph, and if you are in a neighborhood or town you an go 50 kph. Frankly, I think it'd be easier to just post those as the speed limit, but it works for the people here.

- Drinking and driving is absolutely not allowed, and the law is no driving for 12 hours after you've had one drink. The penalty for getting caught is the revocation of your license so most people take that rule pretty seriously.

- Using your phone while driving is also definitely not OK. After being here a year, my friends say they never see anyone on their phone while actively driving, but it is common to drive by a car that's pulled on the side of the road so the owner can talk (I've seen this too). Like the drinking and driving, strict compliance is demanded for this.

- Toll roads are everywhere. There are no actual toll stations for drivers to pay though, rather every car is equipped with a reader (like an E-ZPASS) that is scanned by the "toll station" machine. Whenever one drives by one of these the toll fee is deducted from the car owners pre-loaded account.

- Norwegians absolutely LOVE roundabouts. With the exception of highways I think it's possible for a person to circle through five or six of these within a mile. There is even a bicycle roundabout in Stavanger (it goes up over the main road) that's how much they love them.

- Main roads, again highways excepted, also have a decent number of speed bumps on them interspersed among the roundabouts.

- The layout of the fjords and small islands make it difficult for direct roadways along the coast. . To get around this obstacle the Norwegians have developed an extensive ferry system that allows drivers to board with their cars, travel over the water, and then drive right off onto the needed road. They also have a series of underwater tunnels for areas where the ferry system doesn't work. Not going to lie it's a bit disconcerting driving in one of those. There are also quite a few mountain areas throughout the country that are known for rock avalanches and Norway has learned to dodge this danger by blasting lots of tunnels straight through the mountain. Some are short and others quite long. I drove through one today that was almost 4 km long and took over four minutes to drive through.

- In the city there are special bus and taxi lanes and driving in them is a big NoNo. The only exception are people driving electric cars, which are a lot more prevalent here than in the US.

- Norway (and I think much of Europe) is also a fan of very narrow two way roads. Sometimes you very slowly down a road barely wide enough for your car, tall rock walls on either side, praying another car doesn't come round the corner heading in the other direction. It can  quite a harrowing experience!
get lucky and a simple narrow road is all you have to deal with. Other times you find yourself driving

- And then there are the Priority roads, something which my brain has grappled with and just can't quite come to terms with. In the US when a car is getting ready to turn right onto a road of moving traffic the driver will stop and make sure no car is coming and they are free to go. Makes sense right? Well that's not how they do it here. Instead, if I am driving down a road and I see a car turning into my lane from a street to my right I have to stop and let them go. It is easy to tell the difference between a local and a tourist here because a tourist will usually at least slow down, a local doesn't even look. BUT, then there the Priority roads. If I'm driving down one of these roads then I don't have to stop for anyone turning onto the street in front of me, they have to stop and wait for me. I can tell I'm on a priority road if I pass a sign with a yellow diamond on it, and drivers from the opposing streets know they have to yield if white triangles are painted onto the road. Makes no sense to me.

Those are the basics of Norwegian driving. As long as I pay close attention most days aren't too bad. The cars Norwegians drive are just that, cars. Other than maintenance vehicles and vans for business, it is rare to see anything bigger  than a car, an I've only seen two - maybe three - pickup trucks. Any emergency vehicle - police car, ambulance, fire truck - is easily spotted as they are all bright yellow. I honestly haven't paid much attention to the types of cars, but I do know that Mercedes, Audis, and BMW's a common sight. I personally am grateful for the Honda Inspire Hybrid my friends have, the gas mileage on that thing is amazing!!

A Day at the Park, An Evening on the City Steps

Kairi and Eric flew home this morning. I am so glad they were able to make the trip out here, that we could take part in some Norwegian adventures together. Hopefully, it won't be too long before I see them - and the rest of my family - again.

As I drove back to the house, I realized that I wanted to stay closer to home today, so set my sight towards the park just a short jaunt up the neighborhood behind my house. With 8 km (4.98 miles) of trails, Sørmarka Park holds the title of the largest hiking spot in Stavanger and leads to all manner of exciting Stavanger attractions. I had ventured into it's hilly woods (emphasis on hilly!) a couple times before but decided to go further than I ever have before.

After 30 minutes of soaking up the beauty of the moss covered trees, deep green shrubs, and quiet magic of solitude I arrived at the lovely and peaceful Botanisk Hage (or Botanical Garden).

 

 

Once I had taken my fill of that lovely place with it's sweet smelling air I continued on. I trudged uphill, wound in and out of trees, passed the outskirts of a neighborhood and then came to a halt in front of my next discovery - Jernaldergården. An reconstruction of an Iron Age farm that allows people today to peek into the lives of those 1500 years ago.

 

After leaving the farm I saw that the University of Stavanger was just a short walk away, and so strolled through the campus. It didn't quite have the powerful  historical allure that Bowdoin's campus does (I fear I have been quite spoiled in that sense). Still, there were a few cool things for the passerby to admire.

By then I felt I should be heading back to the house, but there was one more stop that I wanted to seek out before leaving. The Ullandhaug Tower is a communications tower that was built in 1964. Sixty-four meters (210 ft) high and built on a hill 135 meters (443 ft) above sea level, the structure has steps encircling it's outside that allow passersby a chance to enjoy a beautiful view Stavanger and surround fjords. The view was definitely worth the climb.

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I spent my evening at the Stavanger Sentrum. Knowing I only have a week left in Stavanger I have been struck with a need to spend as much time there as possible. I stepped and stumbled over the cobblestone streets, ducked into a few shops for some gifts and souvenirs, and stopped at one of my favorite stores Sjokoladepiken (The Chocolate Girl) for a coffee and chocolate. I took my coffee to go and walked with it in hand to the big stone steps in front of the Stavanger Cathedral. The air was cool with only the slightest breeze. The sky a happy gray with no hint of rain. Ships, quiet  and  still the water before me, promised an evening unburdened with worry. Young families and groups of friends passed by, their laughter adding to the carefreeness the evening. I relaxed and sipped my coffee. I pulled out my dark chocolate marzipan truffle and  enjoyed the sweet contrast it gave when compared to the bitter tones of my Americano. It was a perfect moment, one I never wanted to end...

 



Animal Kingdom in Norway

This is simply a brief informative post on animals in Norway. This topic is near and dear to my heart as the only reason I am living this dream is because of my friends pets. I'll share both facts on wild animals native to the country, and a few things I've learned regarding pet care here for cats and dogs.

I'll start first with wild animals native to the country.
According to the guide books and Norway information websites, there a myriad of mammals, birds and marine life that make up the ecosystem of Norway. Norway's National animal is the moose, only here they are called elk. There are moose safaris available for tourists in the southern part of the country, and I have seen moose crossing signs on a couple of my drives although no actual moose...yet! There are also herds of wild reindeer that roam the central area of the country and there are two small herds of musk ox that can be found in the Femundsmarka National Park a little farther north. The north is also where the occasional arctic fox can be spotted; however, they are Norway's most endangered land mammal. My guide from Kjerag said that there used to be a population of black bears and wolves, but they have been extensively hunted by sheep farms to protect their flock, and when asked he said he'd never seen either a bear or wolf out hiking. The black bears may be gone, but Norway does have a small population of polar bears that can be found in the very northern island of Svalbard. Norway does have quite a large variety of birds common to the area but I'll just mention two. The first is the country's national bird which is the Fossekall, or dipper, which dive into mountain streams for food. The second is ravens. I have seen a fair number of these black feathered birds since I arrived, but there is something very different from the ravens here and those that fly over the US, they aren't all black but instead are black and gray!

The Dipper

As three quarters of the country is surrounded by the ocean, it makes sense that marine life would be adopted into Norway's culture and customs. Whales are a big (pun intended) part of Norwegian sea life and one can see a pretty decent variety in it's waters including: humpbacks, orcas, sperm whales, blues, fins, bowheads, minkes, pilot whales, and narwhales. Norway does partake in the hunting of a limited number of minke whales each year, and whale meat is a common dish listed on restaurant menus here. Personally the Alaska and Canadian Native hunting of whales is the only type of whaling I am ok with and while the Norwegians practice of whaling is something I wouldn't debate with a local, it is something I am against so I will not try any whale meat here.

Norwegians are also known for their fish, something that becomes very obvious just walking down the seafood aisle at any grocery store. Salmon is the most common fish I've seen and according to my friend Katy, most of the salmon sold is farmed. They also farm halibut here, which is something I don't think the states have done yet (if anyone knows otherwise please let me know). Other types of common fish are cod, trout, perch, and char. Crab, shrimp, and eels are also very common.

Then there are bugs. I haven't done any research on common insects in Norway, frankly I don't want

My foot next to a slug

to, but I have a few observations and learnings to mention. One of the best is that really I haven't seen that many flying insects. There's been the occasional fly, a few gnats, but that's it. When out hiking, I feel like I'm in the woods of Alaska only without the awful mosquitos buzzing and biting and that's just plan awesome! There appears to be more ants and snails here than I do in Alaska or Maine, but less than what I've seen in Utah, and only out along the trails. There also apparently ticks with Lyme disease (my friends give both dogs meds to kill ticks) but I don't think it's as much of an issue as in Maine because I haven't seen or heard any mention of them in the hiking guides I've read. One thing Norway has that I've not seen in the states is a large population of slugs. I have of course seen slugs back home, but the ones here are giants compared to those. Brown or black, about half an in wide, and up to six inches long, they pop up everywhere the second rain begins to fall. It rains quite a bit here, so they are a frequent sight whenever one ventures outside.

Stepping away now from wildlife and moving forward into farm life and livestock. I am not sure if this is country wide, but in Stavanger and it's surrounding areas there are farms with what seems like animals to spare (I'm sure that's not actually the case). When I take my friends dog Levi out for our daily walks, my favorite view goes through a field full of milking cows affectionately referred to as "Levi's lady friends". When I wrote about Dalsnuten the fact that we walked into a farm and right by goats and sheep, and that is not an uncommon occurrence. Sheep roamed the fields, mountains and roads all throughout our drive to Kjerag. Near the end of my Lifjell hike I heard the cling clang of the sheeps bells and climbed over a ladder that bridged the fence holding those sheep in. Really just about everywhere I go in nature a sheep, or goat, or cow can be found. I like it. And I also like that this is a country where farmers are able to trust their livestock with the locals and tourists who wander through their fields. I'm not sure if that would be the case back in the US.

And then there is the beloved family pet. I think for the most part, cats and dogs are loved and treated much like they are in the states. There are few things though that are slightly different. The entire country has a very strict leash law for dogs that begins in April and lasts throughout August. I am unsure of the entirety of the reasoning behind this, but my guide from Kjerag (when asked by a member of our group why a dog was on a leash) said that one of the biggest factors is to protect the wildlife and wandering livestock. He said dogs do have a tendency to act a little wild when they see a sheep grazing or deer walking through a field, and there have been cases of the animals being injured or dying when chased or frightened by dogs. For the most part people take this seriously, I have only seen one dog off a leash since I've been here. Another difference, is that owners driving with their dogs must make sure they (the dogs not the owner) are contained within the car. This usually means that they are in their kennel or, in the case of my friends dog Levi, are in the back seat with a gate up to prevent him from jumping to the front. I think this should be adopted back in the states; it would prevent a lot of irresponsible owners from driving around with their dogs loose in the back of a pick up truck.

My favorite cats!

Cats on the other hand are basically given free reign over the land. It's actually considered mean for owners to not let their cats go in and out of the house as they please, something both of my friends cats remind me of daily, and I'm sure my Synge would completely agree. I was kind of surprised when Katy first told me this, but I was shocked when she next said that people in Norway also think that it is unkind to spay or neuter their pets. This just doesn't make any sense to me, especially if cats are allowed to roam the streets. Katy said they also don't really have animal shelters here, and while the strict leash laws prevent any issues happening with an overabundance of dogs, I foresee an issue with cats coming. Another thing they consider unkind is declawing cats and docking tails and clipping ears for dogs. This is something I can absolutely get on board with, and it is kind of fun to see curly tailed Boxers, Jack Russell Terriers, and Poodles out and about!

So, I guess this post wasn't that brief, but hopefully at least some of you found it informative!

Dream Hike

Before I left Maine I wrote about what I hoped would happen in Norway. I had four specific goals while here: to have as much fun as possible, to be the best house sitter ever, to stay healthy, and then there was one that I chose to keep quiet about for a time. In regards to the first goal, I am absolutely meeting it. Every day here is just an incredible dream that I don't ever want to end. I hope that so far I am doing alright in accomplishing the second goal, but it really can't happen for sure until my time here is done and my friends are back home to happy healthy pets. The third goal is also a work in progress and more to come on that. The fourth, well, that's what this post is about.

This goal wasn't really a secret, truthfully I only wanted to keep it unknown to my mother, so that she either didn't get worried about something that it turns out couldn't happen, or that she didn't find out until it was all said and done and I was back home safe and sound. Well the attempt happened today, and so mother can read this knowing I either a) didn't make it or b) am completely fine and she has nothing to worry about.

What was this dream of mine? A hike of course. A 10k (6.2 mile) hike deep in the heart of Lysefjordan that, when I found out I was coming to Norway, was the only thing I knew I absolutely truly wanted to do. I had decided that it was something too dangerous for me to attempt alone so Kairi and I had agreed to do it when she came. Upon arriving in Norway I discussed it with my friends and decided that maybe a guided hike was the way to go on this one. The Stavanger Tourist information center had lots of pamphlets and brochures available with information for this hike and after a brief glance through I found what I felt was the perfect one, and lucky for us the trip was available the day we had hoped and we got the last three seats.

Our guide, Johannes, pulled up in a red Volkswagen van in Stavanger Sentrum (city center) right at 7:30am. There was already one other hiker on board, one other woman was picked up with us, and we made to additional stops to complete our hiking crew of seven, plus our guide. We were quite a diverse group of people too, one woman was from Hong Kong, another from Turkey, one from Poland who was living in the UK, and a gentleman from Japan. Johannes himself had lived in Norway for many years but was actually from the Netherlands.

We were told that during our two hour ride, we would drive through five different valleys and reach a height of over 1000 meters (3,280 ft) above sea level before eventually going back down to the 640 meters (2,100 ft) we would start at. The drive itself was absolutely stunning, with mountains and rivers, lakes and fjords in every direction. The valleys we rode through were also full of sheep farmers. In the summer the sheep are set free to roam the mountains and valleys and there were a few in our sight almost throughout the trip, many were so bold that they roamed the road without a care in the world and no worry about the cars speeding by them. Johannes talked about how people here like to talk about the mightiness of the Norwegian mountains, but that what we see today is just what is left over after the glaciers from many ice ages have worn them down. He said that at one point they were higher than the Himalayas, which was truly something to imagine.

It was a little after 10am when we pulled into the parking lot, and we all piled out of the van to get geared up for our adventure. The requirements for supplies on this trip was that everyone have a backpack with water and snacks, hiking boots and a waterproof jacket and pants. Sneakers and jeans were not allowed, but Johannes had boots, coats and jackets available to rent for the hike and quite a few of us exercised that option (I myself needed the pants). He provided each of us with poles and we were all set. We paused just at the start of the trail so that we could look at the map of the hike itself. Johannes explained that there we would be climbing three hills with two valleys between, and then once the summit of the third hill was reached the trail would plateau for a bit until we reached our destination. He also warned us that due to the shockingly abnormal amount of snow this area of Norway had gotten the previous year  there would still be snow along some areas of the trail. He said that the first hill was by far the steepest and with that in mind we set off.

He wasn't lying about the steepness. Sheer open rock, wet with rain and melting snow, went up in what seemed like total vertical form. Steel rods with metal chains attached to them were buried deep into the rocks and we grabbed onto those for dear life as we made our way upwards. After what felt like far too long we finally reached the top and then changed directions to go down into the first valley. That bit was made easier by huge rock steps placed into the trail and when we reached the bottom Johannes told us that these rock stairs, and the stairs along the trail at Preikestolen, were cut and set in place by Sherpas. The same Sherpas that are most famous for the aide they provider to the climbers of Mt Everest in Nepal. He said that Norway brings over Sherpas every summer to help build up and maintain trails all over the country as an effort to help keep hikers on the actual trail itself and prevent erosion from happening. A really cool thing about this is that the Sherpas are paid Norwegian wages and that what they earn in one summer in Norway, is more than they would make in a lifetime in Nepal.

We began our ascent of the second hill, which actually included some hiking through snow(!) and this one thankfully did prove to be less difficult. Two hills out of the way, we stepped down into the second valley and followed Joahnnes to a nice little area with a beautiful view of the fjord far beneath us and there we stopped for lunch. Everyone sat and pulled out their food and Joahnnes passed around hot cups of a locally produced black current juice that was simply delicious and perfect for that moment. As we ate the clouds came in with a vengeance and by the time we left the fjord below was completely obscured. From the start of our day, beginning with the pick up in the Sentrum, the weather wavered between clouds, rain, and patches of blue sky with a shining bit of sun. I definitely preferred the cooler weather to a hot sunny day as I feel the latter would have made the hike very uncomfortable.

The third hill was the longest, but unquestionably not as tough as the first, and once it's summit was finally achieved we had an easy walk over rocks and through snow to reach our final destination.

When you google 'hiking in Norway' three hikes pop up most frequently. One is Trolltunga a 23km (14.2 m) hike near the area of Bergen that I would love to do but can't because it's too far away. The second is Preikestolen which I got to climb Saturday. The third is Kjerag (pronounced Cher-og). In just a cursory search of the hike there is very little talked about the actual hike itself. There are also very few pictures of the trail, save for one. Kjergabolten. It is the reason that most people step on to this trail,  and easily one of the most well known pictures of Norway, if not of the world. Even if the name itself doesn't ring a bell, I can almost guarantee you've seen a picture at least once in your life. It's a boulder stuck in a mountain crevice promising a 1000 meter drop to the fjord below should you fall (that's 3,280ft!). This was my goal, I wanted to get onto that rock. Did I? Absolutely!

I wish I could tell you that me doing so was some crazy act of daredevilishness, but in the spirit of honesty it was a lot easier than the pictures make it seem. There is a ledge a couple inches wider than a balance beam that you're able to step on and then you just slowly ease yourself out onto the actual rock itself. When I finally stepped out there and stood up my body was overwhelmed with this hypnotizing blaze of invincibility at where I was - at what I was doing but also a breathtaking awareness of my own vulnerability should one wrong move send me falling. Even with the misty fog rolling around my eyes were able to pierce the white haze enough to see the fjord below, and that is something I will likely never forget.

Once we'd all gone, Johannes passed around a Norwegian chocolate bar for a mini celebration, and mission accomplished for us all, we began the descent back down to the parking lot. The weather back was more of the same mist, sun and sprinkles of rain. I had been dreading the return trip due to the steepness of those hills coming back up, but Johannes led us in an alternative direction that relied much less on those steel chains. It was muddier though and by the time we finally got back to the van I was a complete disaster! Just like Preikestolen I did fall once, but thankfully this time was in the snow and I had a much lighter landing. The drive back to Stavanger was just as astonishingly beautiful as before, and we arrived back home full of delight of the days events.

Even though I have loved every second of my time in Norway in the back of my mind there was also a sense of unrest because Kjerag had yet to be achieved. I don't think I was able to fully immerse myself in every experience before today because part of me was so wrapped up around the question of whether or not I would be able to do this hike. Now that sense of unease is gone, it fell away into the fjord as I made my way out onto the boulder. I got to taste a dream of a lifetime today...kind of amazing.

Preisketolen

Preikestolen, or Pulpit Rock, is one of Norways biggest attractions. Found in Lysefjorden, it is a
 25 meter squared plateau, that juts out of the fjord walls 604 meters above the ocean. About 7 km long, this hike is one that thousands of tourists travel to each year. To get to the Preikestolen lodge and trail head from Stavanger, adventurers must take a ferry from Stavanger to Tau and once dropped off take a bus, or drive if their destination. From the moment Norway became a possibility I had wanted to do this hike, and lucky for me Kairi and Eric did as well.

We made the first ferry out at 8:15am and upon landing at Tau hopped a bus that would take us to Preikestolen lodge and the trailhead. I had been a little nervous about this hike. Partly because I always worry that I won't be strong enough to complete a hike of this magnitude, but also because of what I'd heard about the trail itself- that it was super steep all the way up and that there were no bathrooms, and no place along the trail to sneak off to if a bathroom break became a necessity. Kairi and I weren't taking any chances and had actually refrained from drinking anything in the morning to circumvent emergencies. It turns out that the only true fact was no bathrooms along the trail.

For me the first 1/2 km was the worst part of the entire hike. It was just a groomed trail that went straight uphill, and each step made me doubt my capability to make it to Preikestolen even more. But once past that the trail was kind of nice. There were fairly level trails through the woods. Quite a few rock stairs that, while precarious at times, is definitely preferable to that first 1/2 km. There were times we walked across flat boards over bogs, huge rock walls encircling us. Other times we traversed small rock hills with little ponds and wispy trees keeping us company. And then there were the moments we broke out onto a cliff with blue-gray lakes softly beckoning below us. All around we were greeted with the rich browns, mossy greens, and gray hues that make up the rainbow of the forest.

I had worried that going on a weekend would cause the trail to be too crowded, and while it definitely was full of people of all ages (I saw a baby just a few months old and someone at least in their mid 60s) and heard languages of all nationalities (Norwegian, English, Spanish, Chinese, Russian, etc...) I don't feel that it detracted much from the power of the hike.

We had woken to a partly sunny/cloudy day in Stavanger, but at the ferry the skies held nothing but gray, and on the bus ride to the trailhead there were raindrops hitting the windshield. The rain had ceased by the time we started and on our way to the top it only visited a few times. Mostly our steps were only accompanied by foggy clouds and strong winds. I was kind of happy with that though, hot sun would have been unpleasant for climbing.

Kairi turned out to be a speed demon and had the lead most of the way, but she'd stopped for a picture with Eric and I turned out to be the first to reach and step onto Preikestolen. Every picture I have seen of this place has always looked cool. When I flew over it in the helicopter on Monday it was even more incredible and made me more excited for this hike. But actually standing on top of it, well, that was something else. A total rush of awe and excitement. I snapped a few pictures and when Kairi and Eric got there we took a lot more. I laid on my stomach and peeked over the edge - talk about an adrenaline rush! - and then sat up and had my legs dangling over and that felt even scarier!

Just as we started on our return hike the rain came. It wasn't hard, but it fell with a steady insistence for the entirety of our way back to the lodge. In true Kelly fashion, I did slip on some rocks at one point landing squarely on my right knee. It's sore now, I have a few scrapes, and I'm sure a bruise will blossom tomorrow, but it could have been worse (there was one poor man we saw come into the lodge who'd broken his arm). Thanks to a good raincoat and waterproof boots my torso and feet stayed fairly dry, but my head was soaked and my pants were pretty wet too (although I do have very good hiking pants that dry faster than some so that wasn't too awful). By the time we finished I was thoroughly chilled. The worst though was my fingers, white with frozen numbness they refused to move, to bend, to work like fingers should.

We had just missed a bus for the ferry and had an hour to way until the next, so we walked to the lodge where I headed straight for the bathroom. I grabbed paper towels to mop up my drenched faces and then tried desperately, unsuccessfully, to get my fingers to cooperate. Despite this, I managed to change into an extra t-shirt and sweater I'd packed in my backpack which had stayed surprisingly dry, but my fingers were so bad it took me 30 seconds just to snap up 2 snaps. I ran my hands under steaming hot water for a minute before giving up and joining Kairi and Eric.

They had taken a seat and ordered food from the lodge restaurant. I pulled out my snacks and ate, and was able to then warm my hands around a cup of some hot beverage that Eric had kindly pushed in my direction. The bus and ferry ride back were pretty uneventful and back in Stavanger we raced for the parking lot and our warm heated car that would take us home.

Hours later, showered, wearing warm pjs, and drinking hot peppermint tea, I am able to appreciate all of the experience much more than I was back at the lodge. The one major bummer for me is that it appears my camera has given out, which could mean no more picture taking for me the rest of my trip. That's disappointing, but honestly if the choice was between a working camera or todays hike I would choose the hike every time. It was absolutely worth it!

The First Hike

 

One of the hikes my friends had recommended to me was Dalsnuten. On the sticky note left on the trail map Katy had written "Not a very long hike (1 1/2 hrs?) but a Stavanger classice - like Flattop - Everyone has to hike it once". For those of you not familiar with Alaska, Flattop is a mountain in Anchorage that, like Katy said, everyone knows of and hikes - at least once,  and so being the Stavanger Flattop, Kairi and Eric decided it was right for our first real Norwegian hike. We left the house around 9:30am. I had looked up and written down the directions to get there, but I was also remembering what Katy had said about finding the trailhead and wound up completely confused. Thankfully, Kairi had brought her phone, which mercifully found internet when I had pulled over to look at the actual paper map and try to pinpoint where we were. Her phone led us to the right road, and it turns out we were actually fairly close, I had just taken us on the scenic route to get there. Once sure of where we were going, finding the parking lot was fairly easy. The trailhead rests at a huge, free (!), gravel lot and two white buildings with red signs on each stating "Stavanger Region" (I'm not sure what they were as we didn't get close enough to investigate). A sign for Dalsnuten said it was 1.8km to the summit, and with backpacks on, waterbottles full, and cameras ready for new pictures, we set off.

The trail was exactly what you might have imagined for a sunny European hike through the woods.

Tall trees, a blend of what you'd find in Alaska and Maine, rustled in the wind, leaves glittering from the sun shining through them. The path was wide, well groomed, and well marked with red painted T's on the trees and rocks; the terrain fairly level or only slightly inclined. After a bit we came to a short wooden gate with the word "Lekke" painted across. Remembering "Right to Roam", we opened the latch and trundled through, careful to shut the door behind us. Not too long after we came to a lake and saw the trail break sharply right going over a small bridge before leading out to the rocks along the water. But before turning to follow it our eyes caught sight of something that caused our steps to head left instead.

Goats! And sheep! Curled up napping, or lazily grazing, they were all around with no barrier between us. I did remember Katy telling me that this was a common occurrence while out hiking (thus the importance of always shutting gates behind you), but had misplaced that memory until that moment. We snapped a few pictures and then headed back down the trail, full of elation at this unexpected discovery.

We hopped over rocks and chatted about whatever until we reached another fence. Instead of a gate, this one had a two sided angled ladder making it easy to cross without effort. As this was a family hike, there was also a little door that parents could slide upward for their little ones to go through. At that point the trail became much steeper and more like climbing over larger rocks than an actual trail. Our talking dwindled as we focused on the task ahead, but truthfully it wasn't all that steep, and with only one stop to enjoy the lake below, sparkling as if lit by magic, we made it to the top  before much time passed.

The summit is 323 meters, and has a 360 degree view that wows. In one direction all of Stavanger was spread out before us, and in the other mountains upon mountains flew back until snow capped mountains towered and we could see no further. The water below glowed like blue fire. At the
summit is a man made tall square structure consisting of small rocks, a popular place for pictures. We turned in circles of delight, snapped pictures for remembering always, and then headed back down.

We had noticed on our ascent that some people had made the climb from an alternate direction, so we chose that one for our return. Once past the steep rocks, crossing along the lake line we realized that side of the lake was much muddier than the other, and wooden planks had been set down to aide hikers over the worst areas. It didn't take us long to reach the trail end, and as it was still fairly early in the day we decided to turn around and go back up only in a new direction.

Not knowing the name of the trail, we meandered upwards over dirt, grass and rocks, letting the red trail markers guide us. This path was less steep, but full of huge exposed rock that reminded me forcibly of my White Mountain hikes in Maine. We reached the peaks of several small hills before finally stopping before a sign post "Fjogstadnuten 295 moh". Far across from us we could see Dalsnuten, and at a greater distance behind us was another peak with rocks stacked high. I so badly wanted to keep going until we reached that unknown mountain, but I'm sure I could have continued on that way for days. We decided though it was time to turn around and make our way down to the car.

We stopped briefly to peek into a hut made of twisted trees, We then sat and wondered at a small wooden bridge that was actually sprinkled with glitter leaving us feeling like we'd been transported to some enchanted forest. At last, the trail came to an end and we piled into the car that would drive us home.

~~~~

A Few Norwegianisms

I can't believe it's already been a week since I touched down in Norway. I am completely entranced with every detail about this trip, I'm having a total blast, and I already dread the day I have to step onto a plane that will take me home (although I do miss my cats, and thank you to Mary and Star for the pictures you've posted of each!). I have picked up quite a number of interesting facts and details about the people here and the land itself, and today I'm going to share just a few random things I've learned.

Public Right of Access

 

The afternoon I arrived, Katy took me out for a walk with her dog Levi. We talked about miscellaneous things as she led me through a neighborhood of houses, under a bridge, and then out onto a field of barley on one side and milking cows on the other. At one point during our conversation, she said "Just so you know, in Norway they have a law that lets you walk just about anywhere. In case you were thinking it was strange that we were just walking through a farm, that's why, it's because we're allowed to". I recalled skimming over an online article about such a thing and the nature of what it entailed, but like so many online articles, I hadn't read it thoroughly much less absorbed any of the information. In the past few days I have looked into that law more and here is what I've discovered.

There is such a thing called  "Public Rights of Way" or "Right to Roam", that states anyone in Norway, resident or not, is allowed to walk through forests, mountains, coast line even if that land is privately owned. You are also allowed to camp on these outlying areas, although you must stay at least  150 meters (492 feet) away from the nearest house. If you stay for more than one night you do need to get the owners permission, unless you are in a mountain or "desolate" area in which case permission is not needed. Berry and plant picking is completely allowed. The sources I've looked at do say for areas considered "inlying" such as homes, cultivated lands, fields, meadows etc... there are more restrictions on what you can do, but they also go on to say that if you go into any area with a fence, just make sure you shut the gate behind you. And indeed, Katy said she's seen local Norwegians do just that.

A few additional rules associated with this concept are: no fires between April 15 through September 15, all dogs must be on a leash, motorized vehicles are usually not allowed, and "with the exceptions of fishing for saltwater fish and other hunting for huntable marine species, hunting and fishing is not a public right".

Shopping for Food

 

Katy took me to the grocery store right after picking me up at the airport, just so I could have a few of my favorite staple foods for the next couple of days. In Norway there are two main grocery stores called Coop and Rema, but a third had just recently opened up and it was there that Katy took me because for her it was the most American like grocery store. She explained that most stores here are very small, with narrow aisles, and not a huge selection. The exception to this is fish and meat, Norwegians are a people who enjoy beef, chicken, pork etc... and they have a crazy amount of fish -
smoked salmon, lox, fish burgers or cakes, fish pudding (which sounds disgusting), and frozen fish you can cook yourself. While walking through the aisle pointed out something that I probably never would have picked up on myself, which is that Norwegians really don't buy anything in bulk. What Americans would consider a small jar of peanut butter, is pretty much the biggest one that they have. Instead of the milk aisle plenty of gallon sized options - you're really going to only pick up something that will last one person a few days. There are no extra large boxes of cereal or huge gallons of ice cream. Katy said that most people here only go shopping for food to last them a few days, and just make regular trips to the store a couple times each week. I tend to do this myself back home, but I know a few people who would really struggle with such a concept - especially those with large families.

Work Life

 

 

When they moved here, my friends received a book titled "New to Norway". The pages inside it provide a person who just moved to the country, useful information on work life, school systems, home ownership, motor vehicle ownership, taxes etc... I might possibly have a post just about the facts and tidbits offered in that book, but today I'll just share one. Every employee in the country has
25 days of paid holiday leave each calendar year. This is the case whether that employee is a doctor, a librarian, a waitress, or someone who works on a farm. And, each employee is "entitled to three continuous weeks' holiday during the main holiday period from 1 June to 30 September. Employees are entitled to take the remainder of their holidays in one continuous period". These 25 days do not include sick leave - that is a separate benefit. A few weeks before I left Maine, I listened to a podcast about how people in the US are increasingly not using the paid time off they get each year - that's of course if they work for an employer who gives time off. I think we need to look at how they do thinks in Europe, we might all be a happier group of people if we did.

A Country of Introverts

 

I cannot tell you how many times I have had a friend mention to me that when first introduced to each other they thought I was stuck up. Their reason for this was based solely on the fact that I kept to myself and didn't talk much - especially we were in a group of people. I also can't tell you how many times I've experience the same inner turmoil whenever I am walking down a hallway, or out on the street, or through the woods, and I see someone approaching me from the opposite direction. "Do I say hi? Do I just smile and nod? Do I stare straight ahead? Do I just look down at the ground and pretend I'm alone?", these questions are a constant stream, continually increasing in the rapidity of their repetition until the inevitable meeting comes and that other - usually unknown - person is passed. For those of you who think that type of thinking is crazy, welcome to the life of an introvert.

Well, apparently Norway is a country after my own heart and the majority of people here are introverts. I have been told by my friends, and every Norwegian that I have actually had a conversation with, that while the people who live here are truly good nice people, they just don't talk or even acknowledge you, unless they have a good reason. Katy said their neighbors think her and Joe are a little crazy because they say hi to them when passing and that just isn't done here. My brother-in-law mentioned how strange that felt for him just hours after he arrived. For me though, it's a huge sigh of relief, because finally I am surrounded by people who feel the way I do. And now, when I'm out walking the dog, or wandering the city, or exploring the trail system and I see someone else, I finally know the right way to react. Not only do I know, but it's something that comes naturally to me, it's comfortable, and that feels really good.

That's all for now, more insights into the Norwegian way of life to follow!

Stavanger - My July Home

Stavanger, Norway

 

Phonetic Pronunciation: Stah-vain-grr (I was way off on this one)

Population: Norway's 4th largest city with 127,506 residents

Location: The city rests on the Stavanger peninsula in southwest Norway, residents are able to look up and see the waters of Hafrsfjorden and Gandesiforden (this one I can see from my house!)

Weather: Due it's coastal location, Stavanger is known for fairly mild weather year round. In the summer, temperatures rarely go higher than 17 degrees Celsius (that's 62 degrees Fahrenheit). During winter time the temperature can dip to 4 degrees Celsius (that's a warm 40 degrees Fahrenheit). My friends said this past winter they got very little snow but they did have some spectacular wind storms, which I have no difficulty believing as it has been very windy here. Since I have been here, it's ranged from 10-15 degrees Celsius. There has been quite a bit of rain (which I love!) and a decent amount of sun. I don't mind the sun though, because not only does it still stay fairly cool even when it's shining down, it's also not humid, and that is just beyond fabulous!

History to Today: Stavanger can be found in books of history dating back more than 1000 years, with entries noting the "fierce independence" of the Vikings who lived there and the unavoidable fights that came with that spirit. Once the Viking era died out, the city was no more than a quiet fishing village and held very little influence in the country for many years. In the 19th century the city experienced an influx of herring in it's waters which put them back on the map (figuratively) and, for a time, a fishing and canning industry proved very beneficial to it's residents. In the 1960s, oil was discovered off of the coast and it's influence on Stavanger continues today. According to visitnorway.com, Stavanger is the oil and energy capital of Europe, and it is the main source of income for the majority of the city residents.

Celebrations of History: There are many unique and special places that Stavanger holds claim to, and I'm sure that even after a month here I will not have seen everything. But in the few days I have been able to explore I was able to visit a few spots that tend to always come up whenever the city is mentioned....


Gamle Stavanger (Old Stavanger): If you're heading towards the south/southwest part of the city
center, you will find yourself walking along lamppost dotted cobblestone streets that meander in, out, around and between quaint white-washed wooden houses and flowers of every color. Totaling 156 in all, these homes are some of the oldest known wooden buildings in the world, and today are evenly mixed between family homes and commercial storefronts. Walking through this area, trying to imagine the people who lived in these houses from the time they were built, was really fun - almost magical. It was like I opened the cover of a book and stepped in through it's pages to experience a secret part of history.

Valbergtarnet (Fire lookout tower): Built high on a hill in the year 1850, this lookout came to be after a series of fires caused serious loss and suffering to the inhabitants of the city. According to one source, a 1684 fire left the city so damaged that the choice was almost
made not to rebuild. That did not happen (obviously) and after it's construction, guards stood watch for fires and other "suspicious activity" until 1922. This place I did not set out to see, rather I stumbled across this place by accident - I got lost trying to find something else in the city. There is a small museum inside today, but museums aren't typically my thing so I didn't go in.


 
 

Domkirken (Stavanger Cathedral): Stavanger has the honor of being home to the country's oldest cathedral. Finished sometime between 1100-1150 (my sources vary on this one), we owe it's creation to the Reinald, an Englishman and first bishop of Stavanger who was given permission and funds from King Sigurd Jorsalfar to build this great structure. It suffered serious damage after a fire in 1272 but was rebuilt, and further restoration efforts took place in 1860 and 1940. Today, the church is a unique mixture of Gothic, baroque, Romanesque and Anglo Norman influence. Unfortunately for me, the church is undergoing some repairs once again and the inside is closed to visitors until September 2015. However, just standing in front of those solid doors and walking around those great stone walls is enough to fill one with wonder and awe.


Sverd i fjell (Swords in the Rock): Built in 1983 under the eye of King Olav, this monument was created to honor Harald Harfagre and the battle he fought in 872 AD that ended with Norway being united into one kingdom. Three swords were built, with the tallest meant to honor Harald Hargagre himself, and the other two to symbolize the other fallen kings. Together they stand for peace, unity and freedom. The swords aren't quite as tall I'd envisioned them to be, but they still have a very strong presence and are cool to walk through and touch. There is a parking area right next to Sverd i fjell, that my friend drove us to for a really cool walk around the coast, but it also is close enough that I could bike there if I so desired.


What the Guidebooks Don't Tell You: I remember being surprised by just how windy Maine was when I first moved there, but compared to Stavanger, Maine really just has a light breeze. But it

makes sense that the wind is so strong her since the city lies right  coast, and the gales are definitely strongest anywhere just along the water. Another thing that I find neat (but I know not everyone here shares my opinion), is the using graffiti as a way to decorate the city with art. This picture you see here is my favorite of what I've seen so far, but there are dozens of others that are pretty darn cool. Lastly, holy hills!! I can't remember the last time I walked around a city built not just on hilly terrain, but super steep hilly terrain. And it's not just the city center that that's like this, as far as I can tell it's everywhere in Stavanger, and Sandnes was similar well. The worst so far is actually the street my friends live on, and you should have seen my trying ride my bike up it (comical, pathetic, and ending with me just walking with bike in tow). Of course, all these hills are good practice for some of the hikes I'm hoping to accomplish, and walking them can only help me to succeed! That is all for now, more to come soon...

Just a note: All the photos in this post are courtesy of the internet, as I'm still trying to figure out a way to get my pictures from my camera to my friends computer.

Norway, Here I Come!

So it's finally here. After weeks of serious thought, flurried activity, whirlwind planning, and life changing choices, I am at the eve of my Norwegian adventure. In the center of my living room sit two filled suitcases and a packed carry on (all of which are covered with cat hair). The thought of leaving my cats for a month saddens me, but I have done as much as possible to make sure they are well taken care of in my absence (a huge thank you to all my friends taking care of them). I am filled with butterflies, excitement and hope. I am eager to get there, to begin exploring that beautiful faraway land. Halfway through my trip, my sister and brother-in-law will be joining me for a week, which I'm psyched about. I also get to spend a day with two of my aunts as they pass through Stavanger on a trip of their own and that will be wonderful. And of course being the true introvert that I am, I feel ridiculously excited about a couple weeks of just being off on my own. I have four goals for this trip; the first is to have as much fun as I possibly can. The second is is to do the best damn housesitting job I've ever done. My third goal is to stay healthy.

There is unfortunately the concern of how this trip will affect my recovery. The knowledge of what happened to my weight in Utah remains on the forefront of my mind. This trip to Norway has a lot of additional factors that could make staying strong and making good choices harder. I will be alone for much of it, I will (hopefully) be doing a lot of hiking, and the food there will be different which could make it easier for her to trick me. I am very happy, and more than a little relieved, to report that I did have some weight gain. I was told it was only a little bit, but that still helps me to go into this adventure buoyed by a concrete sign that I am still in charge of my life and health rather than feeling discouraged and worried that she was taking over again.

She is furious of course, and trying to trip me up at every turn. Every mirror I pass by, every reflection caught in a window, she is quick to point out how hideous I've become with that small bit of extra weight. I'm doing my best to just not look, to not let her dig her claws in further, but it's one of those situations where the sight is just to horrific not to. I pay for that of course, each time she leaves me wishing I could just dissolve into invisibility. She's trying to get me to let up on the food. She's promising left right and backward that if I diet now then she'll be ok with me letting loose and really diving into food there. She says that if I just lose that little bit again, than it will be ok for me to gain weight with abandon in Norway. I fight back though. I tell her to shut it, because I know giving in now will mean a definite weight loss once I'm there. So I eat each bite of every meal and snack I know I need and try to tune out her howling shrieks of dismay and disgust in the background.

Lucky for me, I don't have to rely solely on my healthy self to fend her off for a month. One of the many reasons I'm glad Kairi will be with me for a week is that she'll be able to look me and assess how I'm doing much more objectively than I'll be capable of. I know that I'll be able to count on her to step in and say something if I'm slipping. And then there is my "Recovery Toolkit", full of objects I can hold in my hands to glean strength from if my own is wavering or disappeared completely. As seen in this picture, there's my "Alternatives to Destructive Behavior" list, a letter I wrote to myself to help keep me strong which I'll read each day I'm there, one of my favorite books ever to curl and and read, a brand new travelers journal whose pages can't wait to become friends with my thoughts, a necklace from my mom, letters and cards of support from friends and my fellow Recovery Warriors, a box of my favorite tea, and of course peanut butter! I have a few other things not pictured here, but no less important. I am hopeful that the combination of the dreams, heart, and mind of my healthy self, Kairi's presence for a week, and these items will enough to drown out all possibility of her once more becoming queen of my body.

I plan to do a lot of writing while there, but I'm not sure how often, or even if, that writing will make it's way on to this blog. In truth, I don't know what access, if any, I'll have to the internet. I'm not bringing my laptop, and I won't have my phone; it's possible I may spend the next four weeks completely cut off from my friends and family back in the states. If that is the case, don't mistake my lack of communication for a sign I'm in trouble. I'll be fine, and upon my return will reveal all the facets of my trip - good and bad. I am also not sure when I will be able to share any pictures, even if I can get online I might not be able to upload pictures, but I promise those will come as well.

For those of you paying attention, I haven't forgotten to share my fourth goal. I've just decided to keep that my secret for now, a bit of a mystery to leave you wondering. It''s possible that one wish of mine won't come to fruition, but with luck on my side it will and I will then tell my tale with gleeful triumph.

With that I am off! Let the exhilarating breath of adventure bring what it may...