Farvel for Nå

I find myself once more on the eve of yet another incredible Norwegian adventure. How do I feel about this? There are thousand ways I could answer but they would all boil down to one thing - I don't want to leave. My heart is screaming at me to NOT set foot onto my return plane, it's begging me to stay. I feel like I'm leaving Alaska an act that, as I've written in the past, I do not handle well. I wish a move to Norway were just as simple as just packing up my stuff, putting myself and the cats on a plane, and then figuring out the rest from once I landed. Unfortunately switching countries is a touch trickier than switching states, otherwise I'd be doing that exact thing right now.

There was quite a bit on this trip that the was same as last year - the house, the pets (albeit with a few more health issues), my favorite haunts in the Stavanger Sentrum, the old candle factory, the walking trails by the house, the need to be outside as much as possible, and of course the jaw dropping beauty that is everything Norway. There were differences too though that gave this particular experience it's own unique flavor....

After the initial jolt I got my first night with the sun actually setting and black night taking over; I enjoyed the way Stavanger's city lights shone through the darkness. I LOVED that I got to see a golden moon rising so many nights in a row. Last year my raincoat was pretty much a daily necessity, this time around it's the sun that has reigned. I remember how much the airs dryness delighted me last July but now, after living in a desert for a year, I am acutely aware of the moisture in the air and it's silky softness sets me smiling. The presence of bugs has been noticed a bit more this time too, of course last year they were so rare they were almost invisible so this change has only been the tiniest of tiny nuisances. The best changes though were the new places I got to add to my life story - Store Stokkavatn, Hålandsvatnet, Tungenes lighthouse, stepping inside the Domkirke, Vårlivarden, Helleren, Bjørndalsfjellet ,and of course the beyond beautiful Viglesdalen.

But with so many things in land that I still want to do - need to do; when there are so many hidden treasures my heart still has yet to discover;  how can I go when I do know when, or even if, I'll ever be back. My friends move back to Alaska this month, which means that there will be no future incredible, too good to be true housesitting opportunities. If I want to come back it's on me to make it happen. So I guess I have a new project to work on because, well, I have to come back I don't really have a choice. Just like Alaska, Norway has imprinted itself upon my soul, so whether it takes me six months or six years I will one day return. For now, Norway, takk for turen, til vir møtes igjen!

~

Viglesdalen

Katy came home Sunday afternoon so that she could see the pets, get some laundry done and run a few errands before she and Joe flew off to their next adventure this morning (Joe went to Oslo to check out the 'big city'). She told me that since she'd be home all day Monday I was free to take off, to be gone all day, basically to do whatever I wanted to do. The first thing I did was head to the website of Outdoorlife Norway. Since my Kjerag hiking experience with that company had been so sensational last year I was eager to see if another would be possible. Sadly Monday was either his day off or the hike scheduled for the day was already full because nothing was available. So sent me back to the planning drawing board which was basically two main questions. Did I want to go for a long drive to see some place I otherwise wouldn't be able to - a Stave Church would be really cool - or did I want to go for a long hike. Katy recommended Viglesdalen, a hike in the Hjelmeland area that she really loved which sparked my memory into recalling another hike in that region that my Outdoorlife Norway guide had recommended - Reinaknuten. I decided to shoot for Reinaknuten and was on the road early with coffee in hand, hiking gear in the passenger seat beside me, excited for my adventure.

Well the good news - I couldn't find the trailhead for Reinaknuten. I say good news because if I had then I never would have never hiked Viglesdalen and Viglesdalen is holy god, super fantastic, absolutely AMAZING!!! (And FYI, I'm not the only one who couldn't find Reinaknuten, Katy's tried 3 times with no success).

The trail starts in a parking lot of the small, tiny town Nes. The first few minutes had me walking through a small farm full of sheep before veering upwards into a rocky forest. There are a lot of rocks on this hike, almost non-stop rocks, but there are very few parts that have you going up a steep incline so I rarely felt the precarious fear that one misstep could send me sliding down into disaster.

Also on the first half of the trail there is a fair amount of water i.e. puddles, fairy rivers etc... but again since I was moving up into the mountains so gradually it didn't really bother me too much because the trail was laced with mind blowing, drop dead gorgeous waterfalls. There were small waterfalls that barely were higher than my head, then tall thin waterfalls that started way up at the mountains top, and then there were the waterfalls - Sendingsfossen, Hiafossen and Granefossen - that roared down the center of the valley and had me stopping for pictures every few seconds because each new step had me thinking I couldn't possible see a more beautiful sight only to be disproven a few seconds later with the next step. Those waterfalls alone would have made the whole hike worth it but, unbelievably, the best part was yet to come!

I left the falls behind about an hour and a half in and shortly after came to a stone bridge hanging over the, now quiet, river that looked so much like something out of a fairytale that I could envision rolls crossing over heading to their kingdom. After crossing it myself however, I saw a small sign The bridge was built to make it easier for the farmers of Viglesdalen to herd their sheep. It's first stones were laid by Swedish laborers in 1907 and they completed it at last in 1912. Prior to the bridge the sheep herders had to cross the lake by boat in order to reach their sheep, an undertaking that was precarious at best. In 1874 a boat capsized drowning the four shepherd and nine year old girl who had been on board. After this particular event the Viglesdalen became known as a "spooky place". It was ultimately abandoned in 1883 with the farmers heading down the valley into Nes.
sharing the bridges true story.

Soon after the bridge I got a tricky glimpse of the buildings that were my ultimate destination. I say tricky because it took a good hour of hiking before I would actually reach them. The trail then turned into a sprawl of rock screes that sang of avalanche possibilities on my left. I was to busy though paying attention to the lovely blue waters of the lake and tall dark canyon walls on my right to be too nervous about my left. Finally I stepped out the rocks and into a huge grassy meadow with five red buildings a few hundred feet in front of me. The valley was quiet, the breeze soft, the sun shining sweetly. I was mesmerized by the calm beauty that encircled me and was filled with a calm deeper than I could have ever imagined.

I walked forwards towards the structures, loving the Norwegian charm of their grass covered roofs and dark wood doors. The first two buildings were locked but a small gate let me into the enclosure of the other three, the ones that are open to the public. All along the valleys and mountains of Norway are cabins that the country's trekking association maintains for it's hikers. They are furnished with beds and blankets, chairs and tables, dishes for cooking/eating, and food to eat.

There is chopped firewood for heat and signs directing you to the nearest source of water. The cabins are left open year round and anyone is able to stop and stay a night or two. Before they leave the guests will complete a form with their information and slip it into a locked box so that the association can note who was there and charge them for their stay. It's a system that has been in place for decades and - largely thanks to Norwegian's honesty - it works. The cabin at Viglesdalen is the associations oldest, first established in 1931 it was built upon the foundation of one of the farms abandoned structures. There is actually a second cabin (in case there's a lot of hikers in one night) and a separate building for the outhouse.

I was absolutely in love with the cabin and enchanted with the idea of staying there. In theory I could have hiked out Sunday night and done just that and I'm still kicking myself for letting that opportunity slip away. Who knows, maybe someday.

Hikers have the option of continuing past Viglesdalen to what I'm sure are more magnificent, magical surroundings. I wanted to go down that trail, I never wanted to turn back. But just the trip to the cabins was 7 kilometers and 3 hours; I knew that it was time for me to return to the car and reality. The journey back was a repeat of what I've just describe. It was beyond enchanting and by the time my footsteps hit the Nes parking lot I was completely and utterly in love. And the whole time I was on the trail - a full six hours - I didn't see a single person, it was just the icing on the cake to a perfect adventure. I have found my Norwegian Eagle River Nature Center. It is a place I will dream of always, a valley that will fill my dreams until I can one day return.

I decided to head north for one other quick excursion (which I'll write about another time) before heading back down Route 13 towards home. In my rearview mirror I could see the sun saying goodbye as right in front of me the moon rose over indigo mountains. It was the biggest moon I think I have ever seen in my life, the perfect end to a perfect day.

~

A Week of Wonder

I can't believe I have already been in Stavanger for a week. The past seven days have been magnificent and if I had it my way these next seven days would turn into seven years. I never want to leave! When I left Utah for Norway I had the assumption that my time here would be spent mostly at the house with a few 1-2 hour adventures close by. When I got here though my friends told me that I while I couldn't take off for an entire day of hiking I did have a bit more flexibility with time than I'd assumed. This means that short hikes nearby are in and I'm even able to take some drives to old favorites (see Tuesday's post about Byrkjedalstunet) and possible find a few new ones. Here are some of the things I've been up to this past week.... 

Monday - Store Stokkavatn

The description in the Stavanger tourist book is as follows "Stavanger's largest lake, Store Stokkavatn, is situated approx. 2,5 km west of the town center. It once supplied much of the town's drinking water, but in recent years has been replaced by other sources, with facilities now being on standby."

This was one both Katy and Joe recommended as a great place to for a nice and easy walk in the fresh air. They were right! The approximately 8km path is wide, paved, and fairly even. The lake is constantly by you on one side with houses, parks, and golf courses your view on the other (just FYI I didn't see a single golf cart, all the golfers walked). I had gone this past Monday, a day that was quite sunny and warm, but there is enough in the way of tall trees offering shade to keep you comfortable throughout the walk.

Just before the lakes halfway point I came across a small wooden building perched just net to a small brook. There was a sign posted on a tree close by and I stood trying to make sense of the Norwegian words on it when I heard a voice behind me. I turned to find an old man whose face was remarkable similar to the one a picture on that tree trunk sign. It turned out that's because they were one and the same and the old man was in charge of the building which he explained was an ancient corn mill from the 1800s. He had just finished locking it up (he'd been giving a demonstration to some school kids) but he opened the door once more to let me look inside and see how things worked. I would attempt to describe it all but am pretty sure I would bungle it so much even I'd be confused so please just take me at my word when I say it's really cool and I'm very grateful to that man for taking time to show me.

~

Wednesday - Dalsnuten

Dalsnuten was my first Norwegian hike last year and I like the symmetry of it being my first this time as well. Last year the sun shown like a diamond and the trail was full of numerous hikers and sheep alike, not so much this Wednesday with the sun playing a never ending game of hide and seek behind gray clouds and few hikers were around (I only saw a couple sheep way off in the distance). I almost preferred it that way though. The few hikers I did pass put me to shame since they were either a) RUNNING up the mountain or b) outstripping me so fast they could have been running - and most appeared a bit older than me. When I did reach the summit the view blew me away just like last time. I stood for a few minutes, gazing at the sights surrounding me before guiding my footsteps back down the mountain, with a happy heart as it breathed in fresh mountain air.

~

Thursday - Helleren

I decided to take it easy on Thursday and go for a drive. I headed south towards Egersund and the Sokndal region. It was not a short trip but throughout it's entirety the sights surrounding me enchanted. At times they were pure European wonder,  at others the woods met fairytale promises, and in one or two spots there was even a hint of the road I used to take back in Maine on Sundays when I'd drive to Grafton Notch or White Mountain National Forest for a hike. At last after many twists and turns, ups and downs, and many quietly whispered "wow"s, I reached my intended destination - Helleren.

These are two houses rest beneath a huge rock overhang that has provided them with shelter since the early 1800s. So great is the protection of the mountain that the houses do not even have proper roofs - it was never needed. The last families to call these two structures home left in the 1920s, but the country has preserved them as an important reminder of Norwegian history. While clearly not livable, the houses are in remarkable condition. I say remarkable because they are open at any time, on any day, to anyone who wants to visit. There are no visitor hours, no guards, no locks; there is just a country that trusts visitors will carefully wander through without causing any damage. The red house was closed for repairs - primarily the steps leading up to the door were no longer safe for a humans weight. The blue house was open and when I opened that door I stepped back in time. My steps echoed with the history of the lives who had lived there, cooked food in the large pot on the fire, discussed farm chores in the small front room, and slept in the bedroom upstairs (I peeked in there but didn't feel super secure in the stability of the floor so I didn't stay long). It was a magnificent experience to have such a clear picture of what life was like back in those days.

My drive to Helleren had taken me a little longer than Google Maps had promised me so I didn't do much dallying on the way back as I wanted to get the dogs their lunch on time. I did though pull into a (free!) parking lot in Egersund and speed (on foot) towards Sjokoladehjorna A/S, one of the towns two chocolate factories. I had visited this place last year but been too afraid to let myself taste anything, not this year I decided. I picked out a truffle and took an Americano takeaway. My truffle of choice was a dark chocolate shell with a smooth and creamy mint filling that practically sparkled on the tongue and put to shame every mint truffle I've had up to now. The Americano wasn't that bad either!

~

Friday - Fjogstadnuten

My second hike of the trip took place yesterday at Fjogstadnuten. The first kilometer of this trail is actually the same as Dalsnuten. It's not quite as high as Dalsnuten - 295moh vs 323moh - and the trail is a bit longer. These two factors combined make for a less steep, fairly easy climb to the summit, I was almost never out of breath. The sun was out in greater force but a constant breeze helped keep me cool. This trail is not quite as popular as Dalsnuten and I only met a couple of people along the way; no runners this time which helped me not feel quite so pathetic! Overall it was a short, pleasant jaunt in the wilds of Norway that I would most definitely recommend to anyone. When I reached the parking lot afterwards I saw a fairly old man (I'd guess late 80s) just hanging out in a little motorized wheelchair. He was talking to a few other people so I assumed that it was him but then saw him break off and head down the very steep road I had driven up to get to said parking lot. I passed him a little bit later and saw a smile on his face as I passed, the perfect example of Norwegians' toughness and love for the 'friluftsliv'!

~

No big adventure today. The weather was full of rain, rain and more rain, so I spent the morning shopping in Sandnes and the afternoon walking around Stavanger where I finally got to step inside the doors of the Stavanger Domkirke! I haven't decided yet what I'm doing tomorrow much less the rest of the week but I have not doubt that it'll be amazing. Well of course it will be, I'm in Norway!

Roadtrips, "Running" and Birthdays!

I woke up this morning to a grayer sky than I've been living with the past couple days. While a gray sky in Norway is never a good excuse to nix any outdoor plans, I just wasn't feeling the activities I'd originally planned for the day. So after pet care, coffee and breakfast - in that order - I darted out to the car and steered my way towards Highway 44 and the route that would take me to one of my favorite places from last year, Byrkjedalstunet. It is a drive that can never be less than breathtaking, no matter if the sky is full of sparkling sun or billowy, crying clouds. I think I could drive it every day and never grow tired of it's quiet beauty. Never grow tired of it mentally/emotionally that is, for by the time I turned into the parking lot of my destination I was physically beginning to lag. I pursued the gift shop/candle factory for a bit before walking next door to the hotel restaurant for a coffee. I could have taken my elixir of life to go (they call it "takeaway" here!) but chose instead to sit for a bit and enjoy the quiet bustling of the kitchen and the near emptiness (it was always super crowded last summer) of the restaurant.

When I was finally ready to leave I decided to take an alternate road back, one that would lead me

through Gloppedalsura, an area of fallen avalanche boulders, remnants of an ice sheet that covered the area 10,000 years ago. While I did not appreciate the very narrow one lane road (meant for cars going both ways) that at times seemed to have me simultaneously clinging to the mountainside and a half second away from falling into the lake, the boulders were definitely a sight to behold. The many valleys, rivers, and lakes I passed through afterwards just as lovely as those I'd come across on my earlier drive. Overall I was very pleased with that last minute decision.

By the time I arrived back at the house the sky had become darker and the rainfall more frequent so I decided to stick close to home the rest of the day. I did feel the need for some fresh air though and so attempted to emulate a tough Norwegian (seriously Norwegians make Alaskans look like wimps) by going out for a quick run. Quick being the key word there, I lasted 2 minutes before needing to stop. Being out in the cool air felt so rejuvenating and wonderful though so I did continue walking for a bit before turning around. I walked into the front door with wet hair and a happy spirit, so in love with this country I can't even begin to put it into words.

There is one other thing today that makes me happy. Today a little girl, my best friends daughter, turns 3 years old! I remember when Steph first called me to say she was pregnant. I remember the nervous excitement I felt when I found out the baby was a girl (I was so worried the doctors got it wrong). I remember the very first time I saw her, sleeping in her moms arms just over a month after she was born. Getting to know her fierce little spirit over the last year has been a true, absolute joy. I'm sorry that I'm not able to celebrate her birthday with her but am definitely there in spirit. And until get back and can present her with her real birthday present, here's a few short phrases to show just how happy I am that she's here.

She's being 'kissed' by faeries and sprinkles in the hair,

She's sassy independence singing Frozen everywhere

She's giggles full of glee over Shirley Temple curls,

She's sparkling matching jelly shoes on outings with the girls

She's a princess and a tomboy and Wonder Woman too,

She's chasing bubbles with delight around the living room

She's trouble when she wants to be, she's her mamma's favorite girl,

She's filled with magic happiness, dancing through the world

Happy Birthday Faith!

~

Happy in Norway

First full day in Norway and it has been heaven! My friends drove off on a roadtrip this morning leaving me with a house all to myself for at least the next three day until their return (they'll be home for a couple days then fly out to Paris!). It's been barely 12 hours and I'm already more relaxed and calm than I've been in months.

I took it fairly easy today, decided that even though I missed the jet lag bus again (thank goodness) my body would probably prefer short outings with resting breaks in between. It was gorgeous weather though and I wanted to be outside, so I drove over to Sverd i Fjell and walked the path that follows Hapsfjorden for a time basking in the sun. When I got home I grabbed my book and drove south along the windy, narrow roads looking for Borrstranden, one of my favorite discoveries from last time. It was slightly more crowded than on my first visit, but still remains one of the most beautiful beaches I've ever experienced. I stepped through the waves all the way to the beach's end then turned, pulled out Harry Potter and the Cursed Child and read my way back as the wind blew through my hair and the sand covered my feet. I finished just as I reached the car; really there is no better way to finish the first day of a trip.

Excited for the place I am in. Happy in the knowledge that I am completely alone. Ready for whatever tomorrow will bring!

Traveling Happiness

Just over a year after my original return, I once more find myself on the eve of another Norwegian adventure. My bags are packed (I think), and I am ready (I hope) for the long plane rides (10hrs then 2 1/2) that will fly me back to that magical land.

I have made no plans this time, have no secret hiking goals. Will I re-discover the cobblestone streets of Stavanger? Very likely. Will I re-visit my favorite walking route by the house and say hello to the milk cows as I pass? Almost assuredly. Will I step barefoot through the sand of the pristine beaches, shivering as the ocean waves splash over my toes? I certainly hope so. But even if I don't, even if I do nothing and end up stuck inside the house the whole two weeks I wouldn't care. When I called Norway a magical land, well, I wasn't just saying that. It is magic, old magic, the kind of magic that connects you with the spirit of the earth and the core of your soul. Being there gave me a peace and strength that followed me back to the states and helped give me the drive and courage needed to say goodbye to Maine and drive west to Utah. I wonder what it will help me with this time around? I guess I'll find out, soon. I am so, so grateful that the universe has seen fit to give me this incredible opportunity - again.

And with that I'm off to chase dreams, seek adventure, and find my dragon!