I can't believe I have already been in Stavanger for a week. The past seven days have been magnificent and if I had it my way these next seven days would turn into seven years. I never want to leave! When I left Utah for Norway I had the assumption that my time here would be spent mostly at the house with a few 1-2 hour adventures close by. When I got here though my friends told me that I while I couldn't take off for an entire day of hiking I did have a bit more flexibility with time than I'd assumed. This means that short hikes nearby are in and I'm even able to take some drives to old favorites (see Tuesday's post about Byrkjedalstunet) and possible find a few new ones. Here are some of the things I've been up to this past week....
Monday - Store Stokkavatn
The description in the Stavanger tourist book is as follows "Stavanger's largest lake, Store Stokkavatn, is situated approx. 2,5 km west of the town center. It once supplied much of the town's drinking water, but in recent years has been replaced by other sources, with facilities now being on standby."
This was one both Katy and Joe recommended as a great place to for a nice and easy walk in the fresh air. They were right! The approximately 8km path is wide, paved, and fairly even. The lake is constantly by you on one side with houses, parks, and golf courses your view on the other (just FYI I didn't see a single golf cart, all the golfers walked). I had gone this past Monday, a day that was quite sunny and warm, but there is enough in the way of tall trees offering shade to keep you comfortable throughout the walk.
Just before the lakes halfway point I came across a small wooden building perched just net to a small brook. There was a sign posted on a tree close by and I stood trying to make sense of the Norwegian words on it when I heard a voice behind me. I turned to find an old man whose face was remarkable similar to the one a picture on that tree trunk sign. It turned out that's because they were one and the same and the old man was in charge of the building which he explained was an ancient corn mill from the 1800s. He had just finished locking it up (he'd been giving a demonstration to some school kids) but he opened the door once more to let me look inside and see how things worked. I would attempt to describe it all but am pretty sure I would bungle it so much even I'd be confused so please just take me at my word when I say it's really cool and I'm very grateful to that man for taking time to show me.
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Wednesday - Dalsnuten
Dalsnuten was my first Norwegian hike last year and I like the symmetry of it being my first this time as well. Last year the sun shown like a diamond and the trail was full of numerous hikers and sheep alike, not so much this Wednesday with the sun playing a never ending game of hide and seek behind gray clouds and few hikers were around (I only saw a couple sheep way off in the distance). I almost preferred it that way though. The few hikers I did pass put me to shame since they were either a) RUNNING up the mountain or b) outstripping me so fast they could have been running - and most appeared a bit older than me. When I did reach the summit the view blew me away just like last time. I stood for a few minutes, gazing at the sights surrounding me before guiding my footsteps back down the mountain, with a happy heart as it breathed in fresh mountain air.
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Thursday - Helleren
I decided to take it easy on Thursday and go for a drive. I headed south towards Egersund and the Sokndal region. It was not a short trip but throughout it's entirety the sights surrounding me enchanted. At times they were pure European wonder, at others the woods met fairytale promises, and in one or two spots there was even a hint of the road I used to take back in Maine on Sundays when I'd drive to Grafton Notch or White Mountain National Forest for a hike. At last after many twists and turns, ups and downs, and many quietly whispered "wow"s, I reached my intended destination - Helleren.
These are two houses rest beneath a huge rock overhang that has provided them with shelter since the early 1800s. So great is the protection of the mountain that the houses do not even have proper roofs - it was never needed. The last families to call these two structures home left in the 1920s, but the country has preserved them as an important reminder of Norwegian history. While clearly not livable, the houses are in remarkable condition. I say remarkable because they are open at any time, on any day, to anyone who wants to visit. There are no visitor hours, no guards, no locks; there is just a country that trusts visitors will carefully wander through without causing any damage. The red house was closed for repairs - primarily the steps leading up to the door were no longer safe for a humans weight. The blue house was open and when I opened that door I stepped back in time. My steps echoed with the history of the lives who had lived there, cooked food in the large pot on the fire, discussed farm chores in the small front room, and slept in the bedroom upstairs (I peeked in there but didn't feel super secure in the stability of the floor so I didn't stay long). It was a magnificent experience to have such a clear picture of what life was like back in those days.
My drive to Helleren had taken me a little longer than Google Maps had promised me so I didn't do much dallying on the way back as I wanted to get the dogs their lunch on time. I did though pull into a (free!) parking lot in Egersund and speed (on foot) towards Sjokoladehjorna A/S, one of the towns two chocolate factories. I had visited this place last year but been too afraid to let myself taste anything, not this year I decided. I picked out a truffle and took an Americano takeaway. My truffle of choice was a dark chocolate shell with a smooth and creamy mint filling that practically sparkled on the tongue and put to shame every mint truffle I've had up to now. The Americano wasn't that bad either!
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Friday - Fjogstadnuten
My second hike of the trip took place yesterday at Fjogstadnuten. The first kilometer of this trail is actually the same as Dalsnuten. It's not quite as high as Dalsnuten - 295moh vs 323moh - and the trail is a bit longer. These two factors combined make for a less steep, fairly easy climb to the summit, I was almost never out of breath. The sun was out in greater force but a constant breeze helped keep me cool. This trail is not quite as popular as Dalsnuten and I only met a couple of people along the way; no runners this time which helped me not feel quite so pathetic! Overall it was a short, pleasant jaunt in the wilds of Norway that I would most definitely recommend to anyone. When I reached the parking lot afterwards I saw a fairly old man (I'd guess late 80s) just hanging out in a little motorized wheelchair. He was talking to a few other people so I assumed that it was him but then saw him break off and head down the very steep road I had driven up to get to said parking lot. I passed him a little bit later and saw a smile on his face as I passed, the perfect example of Norwegians' toughness and love for the 'friluftsliv'!
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No big adventure today. The weather was full of rain, rain and more rain, so I spent the morning shopping in Sandnes and the afternoon walking around Stavanger where I finally got to step inside the doors of the Stavanger Domkirke! I haven't decided yet what I'm doing tomorrow much less the rest of the week but I have not doubt that it'll be amazing. Well of course it will be, I'm in Norway!
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