Eigerøy Fyr
A jewel of a lighthouse I happened upon this quite on accident. I had driven to Egersund last Thursday and thought it a cute little town, but lacking some of the excitement and vivacity of Stavanger. Wandering into the tourist information center I learned Eigerøy Fyr was only a short drive away and eagerly went to find it. Twenty minutes and one very narrow road later, I pulled into a parking lot with a teasing glimpse of Eigerøy Fyr in the distance. I had expected something like the Portland Head Light, where the lighthouse would just a few minutes walk from the car, and so went through the wooden gate (keeping the sheep and cows safe) and began walking thinking I just had to go around that next curve in the path. I rounded the bend and saw not a lighthouse but a second gate. I lifted the latch and pushed it open and continued on uphill where I reached another gate. This continued on for sometime but lucky for me it was a beautiful little journey, full of rounded rock hills, deep green grass, lakes and farm animals. When I finally did come to the top of the last hill and finally saw Eigerøy, I was glad I'd made the effort. The lighthouse was still some distance away, and the paved trail ended then, transforming to one of large rocks, mud and river. I wanted to continue on, to get close enough to brush my fingers on it, but it was by then late in the day, and the need to get home was pressing on me, so I lingered a few moments longer before turning back.
Later at home I looked up Eigerøy Fyr's history and found that it became Norway's first cast iron lighthouse when built in 1854. At 107.9 feet it has built a reputation for one of Europe's strongest lights, and it's success helped spur the construction of many additional cast iron lighthouses along the country's coastline. It became fully automated in 1989, but the old watchers house has been set up as a café that is open to visitors in the summertime.
Gladmat
For four days every summer, Stavanger plays host to Gladmat. Literally meaning "Happy Food" it's an international food festival, the largest in all the Nordic countries. Each year over 100 vendors come to share the unique deliciousness of their delicacies and are rewarded with close to 250,000 visitors to enjoy them. When I first learned this festival corresponded with my trip I wasn't sure if I would go. The thought of driving through crowds of thousands of people, finding parking, and then joining those same thousands seems as appealing as an impromptu math test. And then of course there's her and all the issues she brings to the table as soon as the mere thought of food pops up. After much thinking I decided I needed to go, if only for a bit, because after all what are the chances I will ever get such a chance again?
I definitely made the right choice, because walking up and down the peer, in and out of those white tented food stalls was quite a delightful spectacle! Seafood, burgers, cheese, baked goods, wines, and chocolate topped waffles - the air was scented with the most wonderful aroma; people swirled in every direction, eating, laughing, and looking for their next treat; and to add to the merriment a stage was set up with a band singing their hearts out. My anxiety was definitely way up (she was begging the whole time for me to turn and run pell mell back to the car), and I physically wasn't feeling great, but I'd promised myself before I even left the house that I was going to try at least one thing and I'm happy to say I stuck to that! After circling for awhile I settled on a very chocolaty, fudgy looking brownie and a coffee. Treat and cup in hand, I walked over to the center steps and sat down in front of the band. The brownie was delicious, without doubt a good choice, I savored every bite.
Ustein Koster
If one gets into the car and drives 30 minutes north of my friends house, they will arrive at Ustein Kloster. With Kloster being the Norwegian word for monastery, and literally translated as "an enclosed space", Ustein can trace it's history back to the 9th century when historical records list this cite as the garrison for King Harold Fairhair's after his Battle of Hafrsfjord brought Norway under one rule. The monastery was constructed on the remnants of this site in 1260 and became home to monks serving under the Augustinian order with St Laurance as their patron saint (this poor guy was killed in 258, burnt on an iron grill by the Romans). When the Reformation occurred the monastery was left empty and the buildings and surrounding farmland began to crumble. In 1750 a man by the name of Christopher Garmann moved in and restored the area to it's former glory. The farm is still managed by decedents of the Garmann family, while the monastery became a museum allows locals and tourists a chance to walk though the courtyard, rooms and staircases that contain the history of hundreds of years and thousands of lives.
This place really was beautiful. I went with Kairi and Eric on their last day here, and hopefully they felt it was a great last day activity. The courtyard was enchanting, the church awing, and the surrounding land peaceful and open. It's also right on the coast, the ocean and salt air really adding to the charm of the whole visit. This is also where I learned that I apparently love old fashioned door handles, think I commented on every single one we went through!
Fjøløy Fyr
After leaving Ustein Kloster, I deliberately turned down the wrong road because I just wanted to see what was there. I am glad that I did, because it took us to the parking area that led out to Fjøløy Fyr. Just a tiny little lighthouse at 56 ft, it is actually bigger than it's 1849 original, which was just mere lantern. The need for something larger and more permanent, Fjøløy was built in 1867 and housed a watcher until it's automation in 1977. After walking up the steps that lead to its locked doorway, visitors can take in the ocean view and then walk on through the series of trails that are found in that area. We didn't explore those that day but maybe, if I ever get back to Norway, I'll be able to do so.
Månafossen
I didn't though, because the trail continues up past the falls and deep into the Fidjadal valley, and while I knew it would take multiple days for me to walk the whole thing (definitely a possibility for me), I wanted to get as far as I could that day. Through dense trees and friendly fog I climbed over hills and stepped lightly over wet rocks. Suddenly I stepped out into a wide open field, sprinkled lightly with trees, that followed the Mån river and the mountains on all sides. I walked full of wonder, grateful for everything that had transpired to bring me that moment in that place.
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